Big Shout out to Mark Bulaw for taking the time to send over 50 pictures of original paint cars for me to study. Very helpful with everything from base floor colors and interior primers to the correct firewall paint applications. Bonus for the day included some original stripe measurements from his low mile Hugger Orange Z/28. These will serve me very well.

You are a great steward to the hobby Mark!

Thanks :youguysrock:

For the main body (the part without overspray :hmmm: ), are you using single stage paint? It appears that Grady's was done with a base coat/clear coat. That's my current plan also but assume it won't look like the original paint job
.

Rob,

I considered using TCP single stage but after thinking about it, I decided to stick with modern 2 stage base clear paint. We will tint the color until it perfectly matches the existing DY paint in and around the jambs. A good painter can lay the stripes on so they can still be felt even after it's cleared.

Myself, I don't like the clear built up to the point the stripes are completely buried.

They're using PPG single stage on mine. With the problems they went through on the color, they were concerned with a possible color change it clear was used....Joe

What would happen with base/clear if you only put the base on the bottom for over spray? I thought as thin as the original over spray was on the bottom of my car that it looked pretty flat. The burgundy on mine really showed up on the bottom of the car but not much gloss

If you spray base only, you will have to add a hardener (base fix ?) It will dry almost flat finish and will deteriorate over time if exposed to sun and elements.


I have used this for some repair/blow-ins on my dead paint 68 Acadian. Matched very well and lasted about 8 years parked outside (summers only)

Much like Mike did with Grady's car, I would think it would be better sealed in a satin clear and let a little overspray hit the typical areas. I wouldn't want to spray an unsealed base product even with a hardener unless it was to try and blend something as noted above.

In a separate topic, I ordered a quart of trunk spatter from HBC today and will see how that sprays out using a shutz gun or a pressure pot for the trunk area.

I don't recall seeing red primer on a 69 NOR car.
All bodies were primed the same - what a logistical nightmare to have two different primer colors....

Here are some shots of original paint cars with red/brown primer having been used on the interior, trunk area and underside of the cowl panel. I believe these were all Norwood cars. Myself, I have not seen red/brown primer on outer body surfaces other than what Mike had posted earlier.

https://i.ibb.co/PjYDrmT/Brown-Trunk-Primer.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/dPf22tW/Galvanized-Brown.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/C7tb2VG/Wire-Tab-Brown.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/Snj623w/Cowl-Primer.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/vQzkGHZ/Norwood-Cowl.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/86x8rxY/FG-Camaro-Brown-Primer.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/z5qGHj9/More-Cowl-Primer.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/9GD4mMN/Primer-w-Zinc-Overspray.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/x3cq4sQ/Primer-Zinc.jpg

A couple more shots of an RS Copo with brown primer used in the trunk area. The pictures above are of from survivor paint cars and include Hugger Orange, Fathom Green and Lemans Blue cars built 04C, 03D and 04C. Hope some people find this information useful when repainting their cars with factory like effects.

https://i.ibb.co/xm6kfvk/RS-Copo-Drips.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/bXn86kM/RS-Copo-Primer.jpg