When loosening the control arm bolts, are you doing all 8, or only 4 ? Also, can you turn the bolts to know they aren't seized in the bushing sleeve ?

Yes, I loosened all 8 control arm bolts (uppers are a pain) - but I didn't really feel as it was necessary, as it hasn't been that long since i rebuilt the rear suspension and everything was tightened then at ride height.
But with loosening the bolts and bouncing the rear of the car up and down - the 1' lowering springs didn't lower my car over 3/8 inch. Could that be because the springs in my car - that I got from a friend of mine - really are stock 1970 Chevelle SS springs with 170,000 miles on them, and they have sagged some? But if that is the case, why is my car still to high in the rear?
Oh well, 2' lowering springs are on the way - so we'll see.

So I got the 2" lowering springs and installed them - they worked great - car now sits level (as measured from the top of the rocker panel to the level garage floor).
Test drive showed no signs of wheel-hop. Of course this was not on a prepared racing surface where I will get better traction - so we'll see. But I do hope the wheel-hop is gone.
ALSO: since the car sits different now - the leak at the pinion seal runs down the bottom of the rear end housing, it's not dripping off the dust shield on the pinion yoke. As soon as my mechanic gets to me, I think he is going to re-do the pinion seal and put extra sealant around the outside of the seal. I certainly hope that will fix it this time.

please show us how it sits with 2" lowering springs and what brand and PN on springs

Sure Zman1969. The springs are BMR SP015R. There is also a revision code letter at the end of the part number on the spring (it doesn't show up when ordering) - I don't remember right off the top of my head what it was on my springs.

Well - my mechanic put in another new pinion seal yesterday. This time he put extra sealant around out side of the seal. I'll have to check later today and see if there is any leaks - but hopefully there won't be this time.
Also - in looking at all the seals which we have used - I'll have to say the National seal and the Ratech seal - are the exact same seal.

Any leaks??(fingers crossed)

No leaks .... that's great !!!!!

Glad it worked this time and stays dry, Tom.

On to the next issue - seems that there are a lot of little issues when trying to get a car back on the road in workable condition.
The mechanic (fixing the pinion seal) noticed that my right rear brake drum was dragging a little. You could hear that there was a high spot on the brake drum by the rubbing sound when turning the axle. So I had the brake drum turned by a friend who has a muffler and brake shop. The brake drum was a little out of round - so that has now been fixed.
OK - I took this car to the Pure Stock Drag Races in Michigan this past Sept. Later in the day the car slowed down. After making several runs between 13.90 - 14.10 .... the car suddenly ran 14.30. I went right back and made another pass and went 14.60. So I knew something was wrong - but what. My guess was maybe ignition, so I put in a different distributor. Car did improve to 14.20 - but that was the best it would do the rest of the weekend.
Now I'm wondering if it was the brake shoes rubbing - holding the car back.
I don't think the "self-adjusters" should over adjust the brakes - but could the out of round brake drum have caused an issue, where the brakes over tightened.
The car doesn't miss-fire. O2 sensor in the exhaust doesn't show the car to be running out of gas. Yet the car slowed down.
Any thoughts .......?