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Dern tootin’ brutha!!!:burnout:
Cheers Dave |
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https://media1.tenor.com/images/036c...itemid=4735830 Hope that's what it is.. |
Keep us posted, Dave. I won't leave the house until we get an update......
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Dave,
This sounds very promising. I hope the hypothesis proves true. Jason |
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Yeah well Tim, now that is not really much of a sacrifice, is it? :dunno::naughty: |
Woohoo!!! I’m happy to report Steve’s voodoo doll is still working!:bs:
Not only was that not it, the diagnosis via a volt meter trouble shooting this has resulted in complete disbelief from what I was seeing. Key cranking I wasn’t getting 12v at the coil. Then, key in the Run position, 12 volts on both sides of the ballast. Then key off, key on, no volts. Key back on, 12 volts at the coil. Yep, beats me too. :dunno: Basically there’s no repetitive consistency on the readings. I’ve thrown in the towel and ripped out the dash harness, boxed it up, and it’ll be headed to M&H Monday. When will I get it back? Beats me!:frown: If they tell me the harness is good, that’ll be the end of this hobby for me!:eek2::biggthumpup::biggthumpup: So it’ll sit, once again, at least for another month. More to come.....eventually!:thumbsdown: Cheers:beers: Dave |
I would take that off your hands without the harness. No worries!!
That is frustrating. |
What about the ignition switch? Would that cause this? I know it's new, but that doesn't mean it isn't bad.
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:-(
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Is the “new” ignition switch an original Chrysler part? I’ve had terrible luck with aftermarket ignition switches not having the correct internal switching position compared to where the key was.
What are the voltage readings if you hold the key just past “run” but not engaging the starter? I may have an NOS ignition switch in the basement. I’ll have to search tomorrow. |
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