The Supercar Registry - Gramma's Car: the new project!

The main body is as de-warped as it's going to get, and the lid is now flat. Sometimes it's not feasible to remove all of the warp from the main body since the outer corners (where the 5/16" mounting bolts pass through) actually get crushed slightly when the carb has been so badly over-tightened. If you manage to get the top of the carb 100% flat again, the bottom of the body where it meets the base will no longer be flat. You sort of have to split the difference. As long as the center of the top casting can seal against the main body where the circuits converge, chances are the carb will function just fine.

https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...-32025-011.jpg

https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...-32026-012.jpg

The idle pickup tubes were removed, and there was definitely enough corrosion in the main wells to warrant their removal. Unfortunately I couldn't get a decent picture down in the main well, so you'll just have to take my word for it.

https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...-32027-014.jpg

https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...-32028-015.jpg

Here is an OEM style fuel inlet fitting.

https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...-32029-016.jpg

As mentioned earlier, the carb had been equipped with a self-tapping fuel inlet fitting. Thankfully the casting wasn't damaged too badly by the self-tapping fitting, and I was able to cut the main body for a Heli-coil insert to go back to the original thread size (7/8"-20) so an original style inlet fitting can be reinstalled.

Typically, when the castings are cut for Heli-coils, most rebuilders free-hand the job which results in the threads not being square to the original threads. As a result, the inlet fitting doesn't make contact all the way around on the sealing surface which obviously results in a leak. To address this, most rebuilders install a thick Teflon washer to compensate for the fitting not being square. This Teflon washer will compress unevenly which allows it to make a seal all the way around. That said, it's pretty unsightly and sticks out like a sore thumb on an otherwise nice rebuild or restoration.

https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...-32030-017.jpg

https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...-32031-018.jpg

About a year ago, I came up with my own invention to be able to cut the castings for a Heli-coil square to the original threads. This allows the use of an original style thin rubber coated steel gasket.

https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...-32032-019.jpg

https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...-32033-020.jpg

https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...-32034-021.jpg

While that may not seem like a big deal to most, to me little details like this matter.

Please note that my tooling is proprietary, so I'm not going to show that process. At this time I'm only able to repair 7/8"-20 threads, I can not do the later 1"-20 threads. Also, my process requires there be at least a couple of good remaining original threads left in the casting to reference from. If it's stripped all the way to the bottom of the bore I can't repair it.

SO...the carb goes into the clean line tomorrow. There's more to come, hopefully I'll be able to pick this back up within a week or so.