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Hi Steve, looks great! Keep it up.
Could you supply a part number for the SEM?

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15013 . I bought some recently and it is not cheap. approx. $11.00 per can. But, if it works like Steve says - no problem. https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...iggthumpup.gif

BTW: Mike Angelo (M22Mike) recommends this stuff too! https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...lins/beers.gif

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The stuff is awesome. As an interior paint/dye, it matches the exact black that interior plastics and vinyls were produced in. I used it on the rubber T/A steering wheel, on the vinyl dash pad, on the plastic side panels. All you have to do is vary the distance from the object you are painting and it comes out flatter or glossier. (The closer you spray, the glossier it gets). On the fan shroud I just lightly misted from about a foot away and it blended right into the existing molded black plastic finish. I even used it on the metal part of the dash under the windshield to duplicate the flat/velvety dash paint.

I use it on everything - kinda like what the dad in My Big Fat Greek Wedding, did with Windex. He used it for every purpose, on everything!

or like the old SNL commercial for Shimmer - it's a floor wax! No, it's a desert topping....

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Fiddling around with some vintage parts I located years ago. These are a set of NOS Pontiac Trans Am mudflaps.

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...b/S7003566.jpg

Lest you think I drilled holes in a brand new paint job, here is the method recommended by a friend in town who has a white, original paint 68 Shelby. He has similar white Ford mudflaps and has them held on when driving with these heavy duty Home Depot mini clamps. He's been running with this set up for a while now and hasn't lost a mudflap yet. I may paint the clamps black so they don't shine so much, but other than that they seem to hold the mudflaps in place quite firmly.

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...b/S7003571.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...b/S7003567.jpg

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for real? https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...lins/dunno.gif https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...mlins/hmmm.gif

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After all the detail work youve done, please do not leave those flaps on.

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run them Steve just to iritate the heck out of people. https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...iggthumpup.gif

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Or put on the ones that say "Gas Grass or A$$...no one rides for free!" https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...mlins/grin.gif

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Very nice touch Steve. I remember those. Unique and I like it! https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...lins/beers.gif

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I think they're very cool too https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...mlins/cool.gif Can't remember ever seeing them before, but they're a nice touch. IF you really like them Steve, then get rid of the clamps and install them for real. How 'bout using those plastic pan head plugs that are found on the ends of some door weatherstripping? NO screw heads showing and no threads to cut into the metal and feed the tin worm. https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...ns/scholar.gif

Verne https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...iggthumpup.gif

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You either love them or hate them. https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...mlins/grin.gif

I'd only use them for driving around, that's why I dont want to drill any holes to permanently mount them. These cars have such an horrendous design when it comes to vulnerability to flying gravel, road debris, etc. - especially those rear flares.

Anyway, I like my paint a lot more than I care about my reputation as a cool dude. https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...mlins/grin.gif

I know they look cheesy but they are 1972 vintage cheesy and very rare GM original pieces. Those clamps were the least damaging think I could think of to temporarily mount them.

Verne do you have a photo or link of the contraptions your talking about?

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I think the car really needs those Yosemite Sam mud flaps to be period correct! https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...mlins/grin.gif

https://www.looneystore.com/images/yosflap1119.jpg

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Dont tempt me. I do still have my "Keep On Truckin" floor mats from my 74 Chevy, still in the garage. I think it's high time I got them thar high fallutin suckers out.

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Sorry, no photo. Leaving for York soon. They're about 1/2" long, 1/8" diameter with about a 5/16" dia pan head. They're a little fatter on the end so when you pop them in the hole they tend to stay put. IF you put a daub of body seam sealer or rtv on the hole, that should keep moisture out of the hole. Restoration Specialties in Windber, Pa carries them.

Verne https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...iggthumpup.gif

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How about using binder clips..

http://www.abilityonecatalog.com/img...02855995gp.jpg

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Not nearly enough tension with those binder clips. I have a set of old clear plexiglass mudflaps from my dad's old 67 427 Vette. They have these funky little temporary clips that are shaped like a ram's horn. I'm going to see if they will work on these.

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Velcro 'em on...

Ask Charley...Velcro works! https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...ns/naughty.gif https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...mlins/grin.gif

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What about double-sided sticky tape, such as what's used to hold on various forms of side trim & moldings?

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I'm trying to make it the most temporary mounting as possible - just when I go for a drive, and can pull them of when I get to the show. The two sided tape will pull off the paint. I'm looking for less obtrusive ways to clamp/hold them in place in the back. At least in the front there are a couple factory bolt holes that can be used.

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flexible magnets?

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Here are those little rams horn clips that were used on our old Vette's plexiglass mudflaps. I think they will work pretty well. Don't know if Ecklers still makes them. We bought the set I have now, about 25 years ago. Sold the Vette...kept the mudflaps. https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...mlins/grin.gif

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...b/S7003589.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...b/S7003598.jpg

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All the windows work and are adjusted, doors close nicely. I finally installed the exterior door handle linkage and lock hardware. Waiting on a new pair of long outside door handles before I install the interior door panels and finish the interior.

Pulled the car out today to work on the lights. Once I replaced all the bulbs, everything with the exception of the reverse lights worked.

The reverse lights took a little de-bugging. I found that if I jumped the two terminals, the lights worked. So that meant the switch had a glitch. Turned out that you have to adjust the switch on the base of the steering column by loosening the 2 mounting screws and sliding the switch to the left or right so the backdrive linkage activates it at the right spot. (The 72 used a reverse light switch on the steering column - no switch in the trans like some models). Works great now.

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...b/S7003607.jpg

Assembled and installed the mirrors. (Thanks Charley for the reference photo from your 70 Z on the unpainted mirror mounting screw.)

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...b/S7003604.jpg

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Looking great!
Do you have any major issues left to address or are you on the downhill slide?
When do you think it will be done?

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Steve, That reverse switch adjustment on the column goes back into the '50s. The switch bracket had slots just for that. The shop manual actually explains how to adjust it.
Those little clips you found look like they'll work fine for the flaps, but be aware that they will scrape paint off when you attach them. https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...mlins/grin.gif

Next time I drop by, how about a ride in the Viper???? Not sure if I'll FIT though....... https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...ins/tongue.gif

Verne https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...iggthumpup.gif

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A RIDE in the Viper? https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...mlins/grin.gif You mean the Dodge workbench? It hasn't moved from that spot in years, other than starting it and running it on jackstands ever so often. It's kind of wedged in between the two doors. It will make a great barn find for someone, one of these years. I just went with a new insurance policy with Tamra from here on the website. (cut my Hagerty policy costs by 40%). The lowest mileage group they had was 1000 miles a year. I asked if they had a 1 mile per year group to drop the rate even further - no luck! https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...mlins/grin.gif It has 7900 miles on it, all from testing and Mopar Muscle Magazine feature articles from 1992 to 1994. I'll probably have to hold on to it for another 16 years til it's worth something.

https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/show.../14#Post161420

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You really ought to give it some fresh air Steve. https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...lins/beers.gif

Re: Home at last...
 

[ QUOTE ]
http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...b/S7003589.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...b/S7003598.jpg

[/ QUOTE ]

Just a thought but how about dunking those clips in some white Plasti Dip? Would help them stand out less and might keep the clips from scratching the paint as they go on.

-Jon

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That's a good idea. Didn't know they make the stuff in white, though.

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[ QUOTE ]
That's a good idea. Didn't know they make the stuff in white, though.

[/ QUOTE ]

On the www.plastidip.com website, they show white as one of the available colors.

-Jon

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The new 6-1/4" outside door handles arrived today so I could finally install them and then finish up the interior. I think I'm done with the inside now. I did hook up all the front bulbs and headlights the other day. Once I hooked up a jumper wire as a ground for the rubber insulated radiator support, everything worked.

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...b/S7003643.jpg

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...b/S7003645.jpg

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wow!

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I had the glass installer come over today. I had been waiting for the bodyman to finish the trunk filler panel but ended up using an old one I had in the garage so we could get the glass finally finished. Since the installer was a bit more careful with the urethane window sealer than the factory was, none got onto the intermediate panel flange. That was one of the original problems in getting these panels out, the assembly line guys allowed the excess sealer to glue the intermediate panels in place. You risked cracking the rear window getting them out.

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...b/S7003658.jpg


Got the windshield installed along with the moldings, cowl seal and wiper arms. The wipers actually work and they even park when you turn then off! Even the radio works, now that the windshield antenna is hooked up.

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...b/S7003651.jpg


The trunk is pretty much finished. I reinstalled the original date-coded trunk mat that came out of the car. It's not the prettiest thing but it's the original one. Those dark marks are actually rub marks where the pattern was rubbed off. They're not dirt/grease. I tried all sorts of cleaners but anything with a solvent tends to remove the original pattern, so I'll just keep it as is.

http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/r...b/S7003664.jpg

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Steve, did your glass installer provide the glass? I have a windshield I need installed. Finding an installer that knows what they are doing with old cars is tough. You can PM me with details. Thanks!

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Nope, they reinstalled my old glass. Actually, the guy that showed up was the same guy that took the windshield out 3 years ago. He wondered why it took so long for the reinstall appointment. https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...s/rolleyes.gif

He was very familiar with the old cars. He mentioned that by law nowadays, they can only use the urethane sealer and not the old style butyl rubber tape from the old days. He said that is because the butyl will heat up in the sun and the window can shift...it can also pop out/blow out in an accident. The new urethane stuff is pretty close to permanent and if your windshield is installed with it and has to come out later, it will definitely break during the process. (They had no problem taking my old one out 3 years ago because it was mounted with the butyl tape)

He had some neat hardware on his rig - such as a urethane heater that the tubes sit in and get warmed to 175 degrees, and an electric cauking gun that allows him to put out one continious bead without gaps of clumps. Very interesting to watch.

It was Diamond Autoglass (now Safelite) in Flemington. They charged me $50 per window ($107 total with tax) and even showed up an hour early. Good people and very meticulous.

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Good to hear Steve............ https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...iggthumpup.gif https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...iggthumpup.gif https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...iggthumpup.gif

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Thanks, I will give them a call.

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I could not get local service (freehold) due to in-experienced techs. Toms River had some, but since it is far, they quoted me $175, ouch (that's more than the glass costs!).

He didn't leave you a card did he?

otherwise, I will go ahead with my orignal plan of doing it myself.

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If you can get it to their shop, they can do it there at 264 Route 202/31, Flemington 08882. The phone number I have is (908) 788-3222 but there's a ton of different prompts you have to press. It's hard to get the actual shop and not get the company headquarters. The guy I spoke with was "LJ".

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Thanks. I could only get the operator to call shops and I did not get to talk to to anyone in flemington. But it is not drivable yet (needs a windsheild https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...lins/smile.gif)

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Steve, You are gonna need one of my latches to finish that BAD BOY off right.....
http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...odlatch002.jpg

http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...odlatch005.jpg