Oh yeah......lots of patience. I tried to sneak up on it. As you can see, there is another stud that is shaped like a Coke bottle. Very fragile. I suspect someone could have been here before and elected to kick the can down the road......to me!

FWIW, I'm not all that great at broken fastener removal myself. This one worked out well. Even looks like I was straight:crazy:

I had a package(s) arrive today in the form of some nice survivor knock offs. Mike Vercheak and I were talking L72's, and he proceeded to tell me about the set of 5 he had. Mike was VERY fair with me, and check out these crates he made to ship them!!!!!

That car is going to be DYNAMITE with those wheels on it.

Would that be Mike Vranek?? If so I'd swear I told you he had those, and they are Nice!

Yeah, but how many barley pops had Tim consumed when this was discussed...:naughty:

Stop making the car so much nicer. You’re making it harder to buy it when you move on to the next project.

You did. These are different wheels

Nice wheels!!

So what are you going to put on those for shoes?

goldlines!

I'll swap the white wall's on there. Me personally, like the way they play off of the interior

Whitewalls work with the white interior.

Today, I got the carb back from Phil. Wasting no time, that got installed. Great day for a road test!

https://i.imgur.com/OA6Yi1jh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/VqkI1d1h.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/j6Gyh2th.jpg

Don't leave us hanging......how was the road test?

He's trying to figure out how to explain to Tracey that he needs a another new set of tires already... :wink:

Sweet😁

Looks like I need to rebuild the master cylinder. I'll have a good pedal, then just okay, to only be good again. Kinda screwy. It needs plug wires. I have a set, so I'll get those installed. In all, I'm happy with it

Nice cool day up North for a test drive. You can check the heater.

The plug wires made a noticeable improvement. The engine picked up 100 RPM with that change alone. Of course, the difference in the product is detectable. When I'm bored, I'll install new plug wires inside the braided sheath. That requires some time and patience. The original is the wire on the top......
https://i.imgur.com/sMXBsyKh.jpg

And there she is.....just about finished. Ignition timing is set @12 degrees advanced @750rpm. That gives me 38 degrees all in. Topped is off with an NOS A212CW I had acquired recently
https://i.imgur.com/IECEm56h.jpg

Next, I'll rebuild the master cylinder and put some more miles on before I switch to the knock off's. I want to get real familiar with the car before switching over to a wheel like the factory KO's. That way I have a real solid baseline in order to detect if there is not something right with the KO installation. I had one of those come off when I was about 21 years old. You could say that gets a little rough on the bodywork.

Such a beautiful Vette. Can't wait to see it with original KO's. Keep the pictures coming. Thx.

So...tomorrow???

I have a friend who had a KO come off of his car. Messed it up pretty bad.

Yeah......there are plenty of stories as such. Having said that, there is a right way and a wrong way to go about these wheels. IMO a big part is finding wheels and adapters that have not suffered any trauma. The pins on the adapters and holes on the wheels, can get wallowed out. The large holes are for the lug nuts to secure the adapter to the rotor (drum) and the small holes are for the pins. I looked at 4 different sets, before buying the wheels from Mike. These were a really nice set.
https://i.imgur.com/pZ6DvNJh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/4WG9DLLh.jpg

Furthermore, the wheel needs to sit flush to the adapter (like any wheel should). It is also key that the adapters are on the correct way. There is a left and right side and it makes a difference.
https://i.imgur.com/Ih7sUL1h.jpg

Lastly, I was given the advice years ago to use the "Mutha Thumpr" lead hammer. This is what all of the Cobra guys use.
https://performanceunlimited.com/cob...ls/hammer.html


Many people try with a dead blow, but it just does not yield the same results. I'll also utilize my lovely assistant (Tracey) to sit in the car, with the brakes applied and car in the air, when delivering the final blows. Often swinging like Babe Ruth. The tone of the contact changes when the wheel is properly seated. I'll then make a discreet mark with a Sharpie on the spinner / cone so I can easily peek at the wheel.
https://i.imgur.com/0SSJdsQh.jpg

Since adopting these practices, I have had no issues with these wheels. Regardless of everything I just laid out, I have the luxury these days of extra wheels and tires, as well as a tire changer to go about all of this. As I mentioned, I'm going to get familiar with the nuances of the car before changing to the KO's.

At the risk of sounding like a know it all:scholar:, there are some principles here that should be utilized with the conventional 4/5 lug wheels as well. Throughout my career in the parts business, I saw more than my fair share of wheels becoming loose or coming off at a variety of customers. Wheel damage, corrosion, proper engagement of the lug nut to the wheel, improper use of an impact gun, torque sticks, etc. are all contributing issues for failure.

I gotta admit, I carry a bit of paranoia when installing / reinstalling wheels and tires. An accurate torque wrench is your friend. I also like to retorque the wheels after about 100 miles. I'll step off the soap box now:wink:

Please accept my apologies if my post here sounds a bit condescending. I'm sure many of you already know much of what I have written. Perhaps even have more to add? (Please do). I feel there is value in revisiting a subject that get taken for granted in the hobby. The thread Steve started some time ago about tires dates is the first thing that comes to mind.

Those are all great percautions, Tim. The lead hammer and applying the final blows with the tire off the ground are important as is marking the cone and spinner. I also believe they have longer lug nuts available for the KO wheels so there is more contact area.

I've had lots of experience with Halibrand KO wheels and I love to wire them, but we can't do that with Corvette wheels.

Yes Tim, the KO's did specify longer lug nuts. I believe I sourced them from the dealer way back when. I never had any come loose but I did re-torque them periodically.

Never used it, but didn't someone market a tool/fixture that slipped over the spinner to torque the spinner without striking the spinner "wings"?

They did and I had one of those tools. IMO, you just do not get the torque like one would with a lead hammer.

That tool is a novelty item. You need the lead hammer and enthusiasm.

As an aside, modern Porsche center-lock wheels are a similar design and the torque spec is 440 lb-ft. A plastic-lined tool with a breaker bar/cheater pipe config isn't getting anywhere near.

A friend had a stuck spinner and purchased the "tool" to remove it. It wouldn't help. I just got the big lead hammer and wacked it until it came off without issue.

I'm killing some time today, as a sore back is keeping me out of action. The sun is out, and thought a few pics were in order.....

https://i.imgur.com/J0IPvRrh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/j8zO4ASh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/KCUwNpNh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/1jBzI1qh.jpg

White interiors are just magic.

Yesterday I dove into the wonky master cylinder. The back boot was loaded with brake fluid. You could say I found the smoking gun. On the bright side, it is the original unit to the car. GM sourced the master's from Bendix originally. This one being dated the 342 day (Bendix did not cast the year into the casting) which equates to December 8th of 1965. Right in line for a January built car.
https://i.imgur.com/LsL8Y1Hh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/sin3jCPh.jpg


I found a decent amount of corrosion on the bottom of the cylinder back by the rear seal. I honed the hell out of it, but it will need to be sleeved. I have new master on the way, so I can get the car back on the road. I'm honestly impressed the car made it this far with it's original master. At some point, I'll get it reinstalled. Spring is in the air here in the northwoods of Wisconsin:biggthumpup:

I've been a fan of knockoffs for as long as I can remember - and this is the first time I've given any thought to how they are held on!

K

Any thoughts of where you're having it rebuilt Tim? Just went through this, and just put mine on the shelf and bought a new master. I switched to Dot 5 because of the leak I saw at the rear, and I'm paranoid of getting Dot 4 on my paint. I was a step ahead though, in having all new lines and drained calipers.

I sent this out to White Post Restorations. I have used them several times in the past and have been happy with the results.

https://whitepost.com/brake-sleeving...ding-services/

White Post is who I have used for decades.

I always instruct them to preserve the Original finish that I send them and Do Not paint.

In an effort to keep my mind busy while I am waiting on parts for a customer car, I decided to have a peek into the T.I. amplifier. As you can see, it had the original transistorized board in it. I keep a solid state board in stock, as these tend to go south with no notice (that occurred on my injected 65). I also had a back up T.I. box, so I did the install in that. I'll keep the old transistorized unit as a spare. It's a pretty straight forward installation. Of course my dumb ass neglected to take a picture of the new board, so all you are getting is a file photo:smirk: I could be kidding myself, but the car seems to idle a little smoother with the solid state board in it. Only one of the bolts for the T.I. box was original, so I'll source the correct fasteners when I run across them.

https://i.imgur.com/YY6hmznh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/c3A8ctbh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/hkeS59Gh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/2K7LwaKh.jpg

I had a new master cylinder arrive yesterday, so I could enjoy the car while White Post is sleeving the original. So much for being proactive........that one leaks at the rear, and is sucking air when bench bleeding. I guess it's a sign I should slow down and just wait for my original to come back. :dunno:

Well, that sucks...;) hope that "new" one has a warranty and you can send it back for a full refund.

Yep. It's already on it's way back. A Delco too boot:thumbsdown:

The master cylinder came back from White Post today, so I wasted no time getting that bled and installed. My goal of looking like nothing happened was achieved. I must admit, I was a bit disappointed with the experience. Originally, I was told 2-3 weeks when I shipped it in. I shipped it right away. That turned into 4-6 weeks after it arrived. Unless of course, I wanted to pay a 25% expedited fee. Given my scenario with a bad replacement M/C, the fee was the lesser of evil's. I kind of went over the edge with the $40 shipping and handling for regular ground UPS. Comparatively, it cost me $13 to ship it out there. I don't begrudge anyone of making a profit, and certainly value quality work. The experience though left me with a bit of a poor taste. I'll step off of the soap box now. Just thought I'd share........

So, I'm all set to hit the road. Naturally, I'm rewarded with a forecast containing 2-4" of snow tonight.
https://i.imgur.com/lBMKl6Wh.jpg

Looking marvelous Tim. Darn snow, we escaped with just rain showers up here on the North shore of Lake Superior but with the ground still frozen it's has no where to go. Slippery as hell.

The original positive battery cable looked like a beaver chewed on it. I found a nice set of original battery cables from a member over on Corvette Forum. I got that installed this morning.....
https://i.imgur.com/4PQVBdoh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/vfkh6Mnh.jpg