Awesome Z28

Why in the world would you not run that badass aftermarket hood?

I 100% agree also
Badass hood and wouldnt think of not reinstalling it
Please keep it!!!!!!
Or can I buy it?????

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It's actually not an aftermarket hood. It is the original hood that has been cutout. Then a scoop scabbed on the top. It's pretty crudely installed with THICK bondo and cracked quite extensively around the edges. You can lift it up and down a 1/4" in some places. It would be pretty labor intensive to use. I am an original factory numbers guy. I gave it to a friend, and he put it on the wall in his shop. I picked up that nice original hood for $75 and am going with that. I will strip it and the left fender. Just getting everything lined up first.
I am NOT a day 2 or 3 guy. Don't want Cat Tractor parts in my interior, 8 ball shifter knob, fire shooting out the exhaust, Crager's etc. If the car does NOT have a born-with drive train then maybe put some goodies on it. Like some American Racing wheels. But not my thing. There will be WAY to many questions at the car shows. I like back to original or as close as possible. There is a reason why one of my other cars scored 3197 out of 3330. That's my thing. Danny

lol Cat tractor parts? lol ooook... You have a very different outlook on Day 2 than me.

:no::worship:

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I'm in my 60's now and my health is all over the road. Just got my first social security check on the 8th. Just want to get this back together as an original runner. Clean things up some. No frame off as I wouldn't be able to afford that. Probably won't paint it, just touch up the passenger side. Paint and stripe the hood and header panel the best I can and leave it. This will be the last car I purchase I'm sure. But ya never really know. I appreciate the talent of the Day 2/resto/rat/hot rod builders, but again, not for me.
See pictures of what I WISH I could do with it. Danny

Stunning Z-28. Great job what was done to it. Enjoy.

Killer car Danny.

Love the backstory on all of it and glad you're choosing to keep it stock. Car is just too original to start dicking with it. I have a set of 68 driver grade Z/28 covers if you need some? Just holler if you do.

Will be following. Have fun!

Wow. Looks great.

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Gas Tank date. Don't know if my date is correct? Radiator Cap cleaned up should work fine... D

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Rear Spoiler removed and deck lid top cleaned and waxed. Notice factory tape covering unused holes. .. D

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More spoiler... D

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Original bell housing was missing. Went through my friends tow yard. Searched a couple hours in storage containers etc. Found a 403 in very nice condition. I will strip it and check all chase all female threads. .. D

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Battery tray pitted but I will strip it, treat it, and shoot it. Should be fine.
Driver side door striker showing very light wear. Area cleaned up nice. .. D

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403 on BH Interior steel in nice solid shape. Interior seats/panels etc, faded but workable... D

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More Interior.. D

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More.. I pulled some of the pads out as they were barely attached. I will put them back down with some spray adhesive later during reassembly. D

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Partial V8 VIN and maybe and interior color code? Also inside door panels. D

The drivetrain codes were written on the broadcast sheet. The scheduling clerk then entered them to create the POP.
One of those two people wrote / used P8E18, either out of expectation that would be the code or misreading it.
That's not the original alternator - K79 was n/a with Z28. Someone swapped the pulley. :)
12437 is just the model number.

Looks like a great car Danny. Those stripped interior shots look just like mine.

Thanx Kurt for the info... Dang-it on the Alternator.. I got it all rebuilt and pretty. I guess I am on the hunt now for a matching one. I will probably just run this one for now.
Check out the console harness UNDER the mounting bracket, post 55. That sucker was TIGHT. Would not move a fraction either way and really smashed down. Not too smart. Had to remove the bracket to free it. .. D

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Transmission before and after clean-up and inspection. ... Danny

Looking great!

Don't know about that. Our '67 Z/28 project, also sold new at Holz Chev, had a 42 amp alternator. Original to the car. Ordering info does not exclude Z/28.

enjoying this thread! I have close to the twin to this car that came out of long term storage at about the same time you got yours (2021). Similar hood. same color. same mileage. same general area of the country. They both came out into the light at the same time oddly. I checked the engine stamp and our build dates are 10 days apart. And the VIN stamp actually touches the build stamp in my case, which I had checked out before buying. So glad to see yours looks very similar as being close together, built around same time.

We both have some crazy hoods which must have been an IL/Wisconsin thing before the factory cowl hood came out.

-bob

Bob,
That sounds very cool. Is there a thread here that is about that car? .. D

hi Danny, nope, no thread yet here. Stalled on it for a yr (over 60 speed bumps I know well). just getting back to putting engine back together after just a hone and cam bearings. still 30 over.

Hope to learn more about the cam you are using vs the one standard crane z/28 cam I got new in the box when I got the car from my friend that sold me the car.

Second owner was looking for the car I just bought and found me on lost musclecars.
https://www.facebook.com/page/678670...=1968%20z%2F28

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The Cam I used came as a recommendation from Hubleyman and the machine shop. D

I believe that is the camshaft Jerry M runs in his 67 Z/28 which runs in D/ Stock eliminator. Must work pretty well, as he is has gone 10.45 at 126+.

thanks for that cam info, I will get that one and sell the one I got.
really appreciate it.

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Yes hoping it helps with dead-stop-take-off. That's what I was told it would do. ...

Right Firewall area after cleaning. No 2nd Hidden VIN in the area that I could find. I will look again around the whole area. D

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Body Part Stamp. 2nd Week of June? ... D

I have to ask, is it typical the door panel and dash shade of blue does not ideally match the seat color, and carpet? door panels look mint and back seat looks mint.

I never see anything match. Door panels, Seats, Door handle bases and pads, kick panels, Dash, head liner etc. Not in 717 medium blue anyway. I think because they are all different material make-up and texture.
Some are smoothish plastic, some are rough plastic, then vinyl etc. Then you add years of aging and it's over doneso. The only time it all matches very close is when you buy aftermarket.
Our VINS are about 9,000 apart? D

Thanks Danny, I kinda figured. This is why I like original cars.
Our vins are more in the range of 8300 or so apart. Your guess was dang good.
The selling dealer of my car (Nickey Chevrolet) told the owner that he is on the edge of getting his order filled/processed and would he be ok with a 69. So I guess this was bumping up against the end.

Thanks Danny, I kinda figured. This is why I like original cars (like yours).
Our vins are more in the range of 8300 or so apart. Your guess was dang good.
The selling dealer of my car (Nickey Chevrolet) told the owner that he is on the edge of getting his order filled/processed and would he be ok with a 69 if it does not make it. So I guess this was bumping up against the end, yours especially.

Hey Danny, had a question based on your info you posted that only 2147 cars built in July.
If my car is a 7C and yours is a 7E, why is my VIN 8300 or so before yours????
Wont be the first time I get something wrong. If what you are saying is true, my car should have been a June car? Confused. My block is cast F 17 8 by the way, and again assembled 10 days before yours (as said earlier).

I can't answer that, as I don't have the knowledge. There is some anomalies happening during this time. Stock being cleared out and used up for the new model year. My VIN falls in June Build time period. About 1,436 from the end of June production. Cowl tag is 07E. WAY late 5th week of July. I would have thought the VIN would have been much later. That's alot of time. Maybe there was a stock issue for the order of my car? And that held things up? See Asterisk below with info from the CRG website. Explains it pretty well with the info that is available at this time.
All I know is I am glad the Engine, Trans, 1st Hidden VIN, Driver Side VIN plate, POP and Title all match.

The list below is Chevrolet's documentation of the end-of-month VIN for the GM assembly plants. * Due to several limitations the VINs in this list will not necessarily correlate exactly with either a specific calendar day or the build week on the cowl tag. The data for some months (especially May and June 68 at Norwood) deviate significantly from actual build dates, while other months correlate well.* We are unsure of the source of these deviations, but uncertainties include:

It isn't known what day of the month was used for logging the monthly production, or if the same system was used for all years.
Vehicles were NOT assembled in the exact order of VIN. For any given VIN selected as the nominal "last" for that month, it is likely that slightly lower or higher VINs might either still be in process, or might have already been assembled.
The build date on the cowl tag is when the body was started. It was attached 3-4 days before final assembly of the car was completed and build week dates did not always align with calendar weeks.
Despite these limitations, the list remains a useful guide for approximate confirmation of date as to when a given VIN was built.

1968 Model
Sep-67 8L304745 4745 8N319989 19989
Oct-67 8L309652 4907 8N337720 17731
Nov-67 8L315860 6208 8N352898 15178
Dec-67 8L321968 6108 8N368090 15192
Jan-68 8L328091 6123 8N381420 13330
Feb-68 8L331484 3393 8N392427 11007
Mar-68 8L335251 3767 8N407303 14876
Apr-68 8L338564 3313 8N425530 18227
May-68 8L342085 3521 *8N465482 39952
Jun-68 8L345432 3347 *8N482588 17106
Jul-68 8L349164 3732 8N484735 2147

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Left and Right Brake assembly. Both drum adjuster windows un-punched.

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Right