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Back to the build...
I've had some "distractions", but back to the engine build...
This is the almost complete short block assembly. I like to use ATI dampers (balancers), simply because they flat out work. Yes, there are cheaper options...The timing pointer is a billet job while the timing chain cover is from Milodon. Just about every fastener is from ARP. The truth is, the only OEM Chevy parts in this entire engine are the distributor body and the thermostat housing. https://i.imgur.com/0phR8nWh.jpg This is a side view. Originally, I assembled the engine with a discontinued Holley off-shore Marine fuel pump (driven by way of a composite fuel pushrod). Since then, I've replaced the engine fuel system with a Weldon pump and regulator (-10AN to the front and then -8 AN at the carb and return). The water pump is from Edelbrock. https://i.imgur.com/rZRdjURh.jpg Here's another look at the damper/timing pointer and a bit of the pump. Pulleys are basic 396-375 jobs. https://i.imgur.com/DF3dfBZh.jpg Inside, I had the block machined to accept a large Hemi diameter roller lifter (0.903-inch) from Jesel. They're considerably larger than a stock Chevy lifter @ 0.842. The increase in size allows for a larger roller wheel which in turn helps with reliability (and Jesel recommends it if possible). The cam was ground with the Hemi size lifter taken into consideration. The Jesel roller lifters are probably the most robust (and finest) tie-bar examples you can buy. https://i.imgur.com/O3447Vzh.jpg Years ago, I used to paint everything inside the block with electric motor case paint. Then a couple of folks, including the late John Lingenfelter asked me "why". I really couldn't come up with a valid reason other than "sealing the block surface". So....I quit painting them..L-O-L. Here's another look at the Jesel rollers: https://i.imgur.com/vOwzbYth.jpg Upstairs, I'm using Jesel steel roller rockers. Like everything else Jesel builds, these pieces are fabulous. You can probably guess, I went out of my way to use reliable pieces. As you can see, I'm using a 1.625-inch diameter spring (its from PAC) with titanium retainers. https://i.imgur.com/AeUowz8h.jpg Here's a comparison of the Jesel steel rocker versus a Jesel Sportsman rocker. There's not that much difference in weight, but the steel rocker is ultimately stronger and more compact. With a Jesel shaft, there's zero need for any sort of stud girdle (if you've ever used a stud girdle, you'll know what a pain in the ass it is). The Jesel shaft rocker is a great setup. https://i.imgur.com/CSGhb08h.jpg Heads are from Brodix. I've been a regular "user" of Brodix products for years and I'm a believer...L-O-L. Some of the nicest castings in the biz and flow numbers versus port volume are fabulous (they don't play games like some companies). I'm particularly fond of the BB-3Xtra lineup. The heads I'm using for Jane are 345-cc jobs. For more info, check out this video on my You Tube Channel: https://youtu.be/I7PclURsmO4 Here's one head: https://i.imgur.com/fVYHEErh.jpg Obviously, pushrods are needed. I wanted a double tapered setup because of the strength. The Jesel shaft setup doesn't need conventional rocker studs and it doesn't need pushrod guide plates. But to get there, I had to measure the pushrod length. I have a few different checking tools, but this one from Trick Flow is easy to use (you need two for a BBC because the pushrods are different lengths). I double check it with a dial caliper: https://i.imgur.com/BDUN85Rh.jpg With the length determined, I could order pushrods. These came from Trend. They taper from 3/8-inch to 7/16-inch back to 3/8-inch. It took a long time to get them, but I think it was worth the wait. They're also awesome pieces.... https://i.imgur.com/LTSdKSYh.jpg Here's a look at the tip (FYI, I double checked the clearance in the head with these pushrods. Sometimes they mandate a bit of grinding in the head): https://i.imgur.com/HW32ogbh.jpg On the bottom end, I used a Melling billet pump with a bottom pickup. Years ago, I had a brazed pickup fall off a race engine. The braze job failed. It cost me an engine. That's why I really appreciate these Melling pieces. It's a standard volume example (but adjustable with a spring swap). By the way, that's a Melling pump drive. https://i.imgur.com/qR6tKOYh.jpg Here's a look at the bottom pickup: https://i.imgur.com/Dz4r3koh.jpg The oil pan is another work of art from Stef's. They make a special "Camaro Notch" pan, which obviously fits the Nova subframe. The way it's built, you gain max possible room under the crank at the stock engine cradle. Installed with the correct mix of mounts and frame stands, you can slide a piece of paper under the pan and the front crossmember...:) https://i.imgur.com/bN3mCmCh.jpg The pan is incredibly well baffled too. Note the screen on the passenger side. That helps to strip oil off the crank and force it back into the sump. Joe and company know their way around oiling systems. I'm a huge fan of the company. It's just a stellar piece of fabrication...and it fits! In case you're wondering, Jane has wonderful, stable oil pressure! https://i.imgur.com/rObNcl1h.jpg Here are a couple of pix of the finished engine. I broke it in with Wix filters, but for regular use, I'm switching it to Baldwin filters (Moroso sells them). It's my understanding Baldwin made the original (way back when) AC PF35's. I might get some disagreement over this, but....If you cut a bunch of filters apart, you'll understand why....:). There are Huge differences in oil filters and the only way to see it is to slice and dice them. https://i.imgur.com/qfiVg31h.jpg https://i.imgur.com/4UONhkah.jpg Down the road, I'll show you the intake swap I did and I'll also show you the distributor I built to trigger the MSD 7. Stay tuned.... |
Thanks Wayne....it's Engine jewelry! :headbang::headbang::headbang:
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There's a huge number of hidden "things" in this build that would otherwise go unnoticed. Happy I get to share some of it...:) |
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A long time ago, I would screen the lifter valley in engines I built, but I discovered (and I’m certainly not the only one), they bring their own set of problems (oil drain back issues is just one example). Cheers! |
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Moroso (Baldwin) race filter
Since we've segued to the topic of Baldwin filters, here's a Moroso #22460 race filter (Baldwin) cut apart. Draw your own conclusions, but this is my filter of choice:
https://i.imgur.com/uaAdbDXh.jpg |
Back to the build...
The ignition system I have is based upon an MSD 7AL buzz box and a simple matching MSD canister coil. But to trigger it, I did something different. The new kids who look after tech at MSD are aghast...(seriously)...like "that'll never work"...even though the instruction sheet for the 7AL2 clearly shows how to wire it for a point trigger distributor....L-O-L. I use a point trigger Delco to tell the MSD when to fire. There are reasons for this: The old Delco point distributors were (and are) extremely stable when properly setup. When properly setup, they're stable at 7,000 RPM. They are also very reliable. When used to trigger a buzz box, there is no need for a condenser. All the point set does (and you can only use a single point distributor) is to act as a switch. With this setup, points last almost forever. And the big deal is, I don't have to rely upon an often shaky electronic trigger mechanism (fact: way back when, when I owned a couple of speed shops, we actually warrantied more Mallory Unilite electronic distributors than we sold). Here's the overall setup out of the car: https://i.imgur.com/FdbZVX6h.jpg The basic Delco I used was a super low mileage job from a 307 and as a result, the bushings were perfect. First things first, I set the end clearance. They're regularly way off GM spec and I have to shim them: https://i.imgur.com/n8ZEDjBh.jpg Upstairs, I limit the amount of mechanical advance: https://i.imgur.com/FDNM6q7h.jpg I use one set of ACCEL performance (not race) points. Note no condenser: https://i.imgur.com/cbihyhFh.jpg I usually use Moroso weights and springs. For this application (with an automatic) I want the curve to come in quickly, so I use the lightest springs: https://i.imgur.com/M4mSB55h.jpg Some might scoff, but I still like to use a vacuum advance setup on a street car. It just makes sense, especially when cruising at a constant speed. This is an old Crane setup I used, and it's adjustable. I set it for the least amount of vacuum advance. https://i.imgur.com/7bEF9rWh.jpg With a steel cam (roller) and a steel drive gear on the cam, you either need a bronze distributor gear or a melonized gear. I prefer the melonized gear. FYI, Chevy uses them on their roller cam crate engines: https://i.imgur.com/Dkfc17Th.jpg Upstairs, I prefer the old ACCEL caps and rotors. They're heavier and more robust than the new MSD pieces: https://i.imgur.com/TcNgIiBh.jpg This is the finished distributor (less the melonized gear...which was installed later): https://i.imgur.com/bSHp72xh.jpg My intake manifold choice posed a real problem. The intent was to use a Weiand Strip Warrior single plane. But it clearly wouldn't allow the hood to close. I wasn't about to use any sort of hood scoop and I wasn't about to sacrifice filter area. Here's the Weiand in the car: https://i.imgur.com/tVQo0E8h.jpg I needed something shorter, but there are some really issues: Stock big block Chevy intakes have a bolt hole over each siamese intake runner. Most aftermarket heads like the Brodix BB3's I use don't have the corresponding hole. Here's a look at an intake for a stock Chevy head layout: https://i.imgur.com/H93mLMph.jpg If you place an intake gasket for a Brodix BB3 Xtra head over the manifold, this is the result...Incredible vacuum leak...L-O-L: https://i.imgur.com/XbF59uSh.jpg Because of all of this, the options aren't that great: Weld the offending bolt holes in an intake (that will fit) or find an intake that does work. In truth, there is only one out there, and it's about to be discontinued, simply because it costs lot of $$$. It's a Brodix dual plane intake. Here it is, side by side with the Weiand: https://i.imgur.com/YCwCDYGh.jpg I suspect there's a pretty good power loss with the Brodix although Scott Shaffiroff's testing has proven it's not really that bad. On the car, it's easy to see it can clear the flat hood: https://i.imgur.com/HRSkBUuh.jpg Here's the intake on the 565-cid big block. I sure can't complain about the throttle response...It's over the top. In fact, the big block rotates the tach like a hot small block. https://i.imgur.com/u1iYI0wh.jpg That's it for this episode...Stay tuned for more... |
With the engine done, I was ready for the transmission and converter. Trouble was, those pieces were on a big wait list from ATI. They were roughly 100 custom transmissions behind. And since I'm a big fan of ATI, I bit the bullet, placed the order....and waited. In the meantime, it was an opportunity to mount an external trans cooler.
I had a really (Really!) nice Earl's stacked plate oil cooler on hand. It's big, but the reality is, there is no way possible to overcool an automatic transmission. Like some other parts, it has been recently discontinued by Earl's parent company, Holley. I suspect it was too expensive for them to produce and it's probably far cheaper to build something else (offshore?). Stacked plate coolers are really the best format. They're similar to old Corvette L88 rads. Here's the cooler: https://i.imgur.com/GtobBXWh.jpg These old coolers will accept almost any hose size, with o-ring fittings. They were originally designed so that they could be used as engine oil coolers. I'm using -6AN hose for the cooler lines. https://i.imgur.com/DbqzspTh.jpg These are the optional mount brackets for the cooler. For my application, I used both, but had to fab up one more bracket. https://i.imgur.com/aDqWfRBh.jpg I needed to build a bracket that would allow me to mount one end on the rad support and one end on the hood latch support (upright) at the nose of the car. So I dragged out this chunk of angle aluminum extrusion and the idea was to cut away anything that didn't look like a bracket (L-O-L): https://i.imgur.com/fem35fOh.jpg I don't have a mill, so everything is done the old fashioned way...by hand! I used a saw, various files, a drill, a hole saw, and sanding blocks to fab parts. Here's the bracket roughed out. https://i.imgur.com/HpSHucPh.jpg Because the bracket was hefty, I decided to remove some excess material. A decent hole saw and some Rapid Tap works wonders: https://i.imgur.com/CtKLmzwh.jpg Here's the finished bracket after I cleaned it up and block sanded it: https://i.imgur.com/L3tJv9sh.jpg https://i.imgur.com/QSexovrh.jpg This is the cooler installed in the car. I use a mix of AN aircraft fasteners to bolt it to the car: https://i.imgur.com/JXqSOrlh.jpg These are some later photos of the how the cooler lines are routed (transmission is in place here). I tried to keep close to the GM routing path, since it keeps the lines as far away from the headers possible. The first photo shows a pair of AN adapter fittings ATI builds: https://i.imgur.com/Gjv9V3Vh.jpg The lines pass under the starter. I built a little bracket to affix the hose separator/clamp to an oil pan bolt. As you can see, I'm using a Tilton gear reduction starter. These are absolutely awesome. It doesn't drag with 14-degrees (or more sometimes) initial timing, turning the 565. By the way, there's a huge difference in these "mini-starters" from various companies. Tilton costs more, but it just flat works. https://i.imgur.com/Xy5zYWKh.jpg That's all I have for now. Next time, I'll show you some details on the shifter. I prefer getting it mounted prior to the transmission installation. |
I really don't think your losing any power with that dual plane. People have made over 800Hp with GM OEM dual planes. This larger should support at least 850Hp
SMALLER 538 in with ported GM dual plane, 831Hp. https://www.chevelles.com/threads/ho...-plane.354314/ Mine didn't make 800Hp, but we think the stock 1969 "052" alum block is the issue there. |
After a considerable wait, my TH400 was eventually shipped from ATI in Maryland. I've used both ATI and A1 Racing automatics transmissions for something like forty years. I knew both of the respective company founders very well. When Jim Beattie passed away, ATI was handed over to to his very capable son JC. Marc Ripes (from A1) on the other hand sold his business. I elected to go with ATI. JC runs a great business!
Anyway, while waiting for the transmission, I decided to install the shifter from Precision Performance. It's a fabulous piece and you'll soon see why... First things first...I mocked it up in the car. I use tape to lay out where it will be, after getting in the car, moving the bench seat around and getting comfortable. https://i.imgur.com/X9vLaveh.jpg Here's the shift gate. As you can see, it's a forward pattern setup. I prefer forward pattern transmissions on the street. I'll get to that later. With the Precision Performance shifter, once it's in first gear, it operates like a ratchet. When changing upshifting, just keep slapping the shifter forward. When downshifting, you simply pull the lever and the shifter handle simultaneously. https://i.imgur.com/4LwxeWph.jpg The sliver "button" on the shifter handle is used when you need to go into reverse or park. Meanwhile, the red button is the line lock (roll control) switch. https://i.imgur.com/QVbnGtXh.jpg There's a neutral safety switch built into the shifter. I simply wired it into the OEM neutral safety switch in the dash harness. The other wires are for the line lock. Note the mil spec style wire harness connector. https://i.imgur.com/v99owq9h.jpg In order to make clean holes in the carpet, I use this (a soldering iron). By the way, a larger job works perfectly for making seat belt and seat mount holes in new carpet too! https://i.imgur.com/f1vH53Lh.jpg Here's the shifter installed. I hate using big screws to hold a shifter in place. They're not secure and they tend to slice and dice my skin if I get too close under the car (:)). I use aircraft AN fasteners to hold it in place (nylocks under the car). I think you can see why plenty of racers use this setup. It's simply awesome. https://i.imgur.com/e2XdBHlh.jpg Here's my TH400 from ATI. It too is a piece (!!!). Choices for components were a collaboration between JC and myself. For street use, a forward pattern manual valve body is a good idea. Their reason is, most reverse pattern manual valve bodies do not provide engine braking. ATI's forward pattern manual valve body does. Additionally, it has standard 2.48:1. 1.48:1 and 1:1 ratios. The input shaft is a Vasco steel job and the balance is all heavy duty ATI hardware (too much to list here). The torque converter is a 10-inch Tree Master from ATI. In ancient times, I would have needed to use an 8-inch converter, but technology has marched forward and ATI can make the 10-inch example work perfectly. A long stroke engine helps...L-O-L. And if you've used an 8-inch converter on the street, you'll know it sometimes isn't fun. The flex plate is an SFI-certified piece from ATI. I don't like billet flex plates. The reason is, they don't flex (which they are supposed to do) and that can create all sorts of havoc on a street driven car. https://i.imgur.com/oMmsRLnh.jpg Obviously, the engine and trans must be hooked together and there are some important considerations. Here's how I do it... https://i.imgur.com/GES8S96h.jpg To mount the flex plate on the engine, you have to make sure it's oriented correctly (don't laugh...some get it backwards). I also use ARP fasteners and torque them to spec: https://i.imgur.com/iAwUjYHh.jpg When installing a converter, it's easy enough to get it wrong. Plenty of good mechanics miss it. I use this simple ATI shipping tool to ensure the converter and transmission input splines are correctly engaged. It saves a ton of heartache if you don't get it right. https://i.imgur.com/j3AaSjNh.jpg Another thing folks tend to miss is transmission bolt engagement (often too little). I use ARP 12-point fasteners here, and this photo shows how much thread engagement they offer. https://i.imgur.com/mTcOwDFh.jpg When installing the transmission, you shouldn't draw it to the block by the bolt threads. Once on the dowels, you should be able to move it into place by hand (that's what is going on here): https://i.imgur.com/CixDTVsh.jpg With the transmission case attached, here's the little dance I do to get the converter bolts installed and get the starter properly shimmed. It ain't pretty but it works...L-O-L: https://i.imgur.com/ezI9xFWh.jpg Here's another look at the starter (Tilton simply builds stellar, no BS parts): https://i.imgur.com/pDyR4gLh.jpg I prefer to use ATI's Grade 8 bolts for the converter (to flexplate). The reason is, a six-point head allows open end wrench access up inside the transmission bell housing. https://i.imgur.com/RFD9QsWh.jpg I did this earlier, but I'll it address it now. It's the shifter cable setup on the transmission. It is far easier to get it close to adjustment here and then final adjust after it's in the car. As you can see, Precision Performance uses all top quality components: https://i.imgur.com/efjhFmGh.jpg Something small but incredibly important is the transmission dipstick. I use this setup from Dan Masta's Trick Stick company. With this assembly, the dipstick actually locks (NHRA requirement). This prevents it from blowing out, and if you've ever experienced a broken automatic that spews out a dipstick tube (and consequently oils down your back tires), you'll know why it's a great idea! https://i.imgur.com/ZmQe2WDh.jpg https://i.imgur.com/arHGqyOh.jpg |
Awesome build Wayne! Do remember how long you made the advance slot in your distributor? I recently restored a Delco distributor for my 496 and shortened the advance slot with a dab of weld followed by some filing. The stock 327/210hp distributor gave it 28* of advance! Now I have half that.
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Hi Chuck. I just used an oversize limiter bushing and didn’t touch the slot. I might go back in and limit the mechanical a bit more (not as much as your setup though)…and then add more initial. The original plan was to run a stick, and because of that I have more mechanical advance in it (and less initial). On the other hand, my 565 does really run nicely the way it is, so I just might leave it alone.😉
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Getting closer to done.....
Here are the headers I used: They're custom headers from Lemons' in California. The headers are a slip fit design (each pipe slips into the collector and the flange is split). This allows getting them into the car with a wee bit more ease. The primary tubes are 2.25-inches in diameter while the collectors are 4.0-inches. https://i.imgur.com/ctJdi4vh.jpg Dan Lemons does fabulous work. Here's the TIG welding on the primaries: https://i.imgur.com/BSd8GDlh.jpg Inside the tube, you can see the same attention to detail: https://i.imgur.com/IS1RkgUh.jpg The collectors incorporate an exhaust gas transition spear: https://i.imgur.com/8i9df0fh.jpg I really struggled with what to coat them with. I've found that some of the coatings out there don't live. Also, after a lot of hand-wringing, I decided to mute the coating colour so as to match the understated theme of the car. After a bit of research I decided to use a Cerakote process. It's used on custom guns and rifles, and certain mixes have the heat capacity for headers. To get there, the local shop asked me to clean the header parts: https://i.imgur.com/UYIuUgHh.jpg I never saved any "after" shots of the finished headers but you can see the almost flat black I selected in some of the other images of the car. Moving back in the exhaust I incorporated V-band clamps to hook the 4-inch to 3-inch reducers to the exhaust. https://i.imgur.com/0eAdoRKh.jpg Out back, I used these hangers from Stainless Works. They attach to the longer-than-stock rear seat belt bolts I installed. Not shown here is the clamp I used. Instead of the clamp shown, I went with a beefier stainless steel u-bolt setup. https://i.imgur.com/o7SZhEzh.jpg I made a set of turnouts from 3-inch stainless and they were TIG welded directly to the Hooker mufflers: https://i.imgur.com/78AXqfEh.jpg This is a look at the exhaust before I modified the head pipes to fit. The system has 3-inch pipes and of course a cross-over. Hooker Headers makes it for LS swaps. I have three different sets of mufflers on hand and I picked what I thought would be the quietest. And it really is subdued, even without tail pipes (which I cannot run with the rear suspension and the mount location required for the large electric fuel pump I have on the car). https://i.imgur.com/FWSumj3h.jpg The final big piece under the car is the driveshaft. I had Mark Williams build me a custom 3-1/2-inch diameter job from 7075 aluminum. FYI, many years ago, I tested a conventional steel shaft against an aluminum shaft in a NHRA Stock Eliminator car. With back to back to back A-B-A testing, I discovered the aluminum shaft was definitely quicker (bad alas, not NHRA legal for the application....L-O-L). Too bad no one can see this M-W shaft hidden up inside the car. It's a work of art: https://i.imgur.com/ALEI7guh.jpg M-W built the billet steel slip yoke for the TH400. I use solid (no zerk) Spicer 1350 universal joints front and rear. The driveshaft yoke isn't welded. The reason is, you can't easily weld 7075. Williams invented a bonding system to install the pair of "weld" yokes on the shaft. The strength actually exceeds that of a conventional welded (non-7075 alloy) shaft. https://i.imgur.com/JiZbITKh.jpg The rear of the shaft is the same -- Spicer 1350 u-joints and an "Accubonded" yoke. Williams high speed balances the shafts, and for my application, the critical speed is just about perfect for the RPM range of the car. https://i.imgur.com/3QQKnsih.jpg That's all for now. Down the road, I'll show you some other details... |
Outstanding!!
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Did they tell you what the filler material was for the welds on those headers? The color of the weld on that flange looks like silicon bronze. I've run into problems at work with 7075 aluminum. The guys that I work with keep making parts from 7075 and then bring it to me to weld it. They aren't very happy when I tell them they have to make it over again out of 6061. I didn't see any signs of balancing the shaft. How did they do that?
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Not sure what the filler material was on the headers. I'm sure Lemons would tell you. L-O-L on welding 7075. I think a lot people look up the specs of 7075 and have visions of welding it but reality can change that pretty quick! I found something on the Internet about welding it, but it seemed way out there. :) Mark physically screws the weights to either end of the shaft, on the yokes, and it passes SFI testing too. The goop is to keep folks from tampering with it (or at least, scare them). Here's one image: https://i.imgur.com/gKXcZWth.jpg |
An interesting part about Lemons Headers is that, in addition to the engine and chassis, the headers are built for the cylinder head exhaust port (size and location). This is particularly important with raised exhaust ports. In my case, the Brodix BB3 XTra exhaust ports are raised 0.600-inch. I had a set of Hooker Race Headers here and I tried them. They weren’t even close to fitting. The reason is they’re built for stock production line port heights. In the end, you do get what you pay for with Lemons. :)
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Nice job on your Nova. I look forward to reading your updates and seeing the photos.
What are you using for a transmission/bellhousing shield ? Just curious. |
Thanks for the compliment. I’m not using a converter and/or trans shield. They can be a royal pain on a race car, and this certainly isn’t a race car. The car wouldn’t pass NHRA or IHRA tech anyway plus I’m not cutting it up to make it “track legal” :).
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Here are some added images of the build. You might find some of this interesting or useful.
This is the battery of choice. It's actually a modern AGM (absorbent glass matt) battery from XS Power. XS Power does a lot of race car and sound system batteries. They offer this "vintage" looking job with aged decals. I really dig it and it fits the car I think. By the way, that's the largest battery that fits in the battery tray. Also you can see I use XS Power adapters on the posts (posts are actually screw-on, underneath the reproduction spring ring cables). The reason is, the MSD 7 box is powered directly from the battery. This makes a huge difference in ignition performance. https://i.imgur.com/mv9MIiOh.jpg https://i.imgur.com/PlAN9QJh.jpg When I mounted the electric fuel pump out back, I decided to use a doubler on the sheetmetal. I built this piece from composite nylon-plastic. The reason for using a doubler is twofold: It prevents cracking sheetmetal (single layer in this case) due to pump vibration and weight It also dampens the noise from the pump. Doubler is installed with AN (aircraft) hardware and I always make sure there is ample edge margin (distance from the drilled hole to the edge of the doubler plate). https://i.imgur.com/D82ccKVh.jpg When the spare is installed, most of the doubler is covered up. It also covers up the wiring for the fuel pump. I used a Heyco fastener for the wiring that passes through the sheet metal. This ensures it is sealed tight and doesn't chafe. https://i.imgur.com/Eqr8udfh.jpg I used a huge capacity 25-amp switch from Quick Car Racing Products for the fuel pump. It incorporates a flip style safety cover (easy to turn off) along with screw-in terminals. The body is primarily metal. Great quality switch. I do have a relay on hand, but I don't believe (given the low demand of the pump) it is actually required. BTW, the switch installs in a slightly enlarged OEM hole in the dash structure. https://i.imgur.com/6uhziTQh.jpg While on the topic of the interior, here's a look at the front, from the passenger side: https://i.imgur.com/zcVT6a6h.jpg Backseat (this car was pretty much phenomenal): https://i.imgur.com/25iKkash.jpg The engine compartment is done...Stick a fork in it...L-O-L...I think the mix of OEM and aftermarket parts came out great -- Exactly the subtle look I wanted: https://i.imgur.com/NdHOOz3h.jpg https://i.imgur.com/3LfUQT9h.jpg On the nose of the car, I had these Korean Kumho P205-70R15 tires on the front. To me, they didn't fill up the wheel well sufficiently. It looked a bit goofy and I wanted a bit more header clearance. In this photo, the hood wasn't on and there wasn't any water in the engine/rad. As a result it dropped down even further: https://i.imgur.com/mYs8u4hh.jpg This is the solution: A new set of Toyo P205-75R15 front tires. This provides approximately 5.5 of header clearance. They fill up the wheel well nicely. The same amount of tire is up inside the wheel well front and back and the rubber rake is now 1-inch front to back. https://i.imgur.com/KlLmCQzh.jpg This is an older photo inside my old shop, but it shows the paint. Roughly 70% is original lacquer. Yes, there are a few paint chips that have been fixed, and yes, the rockers and the parts of the front fenders have been re-sprayed in lacquer. There are a couple of light scratches on the roof and deck lid from going through an automatic car wash (way back when) and there is a very (Very!) tiny door dent on the left front fender lip. Because of the age of the paint, I decided to leave this scratches alone. But to bring the original lacquer back to life, I use this mix of products. The big secret is Meguiars #7. I hand apply it, rubbing it into the paint surface and allow it to sit for 24 hours. Then I buff it by hand (not easy...L-O-L). According to folks in the know, #7 restores oils in the lacquer. I can't say that's right or wrong, but check out this photo of the hood: https://i.imgur.com/k5VtGr0h.jpg My wife made this for me....Perfect! :) https://i.imgur.com/yg9q7vhh.jpg On another note, I'm taking the car to a big local indoor show on Easter weekend. I don't really care if I get any awards. The idea is to see some old friends (I moved back to the prairies after 30+ years on the west coast). After the show, I have a hunch I'll put the car up for sale. I'm kind of set on doing one more car (while I can -- old age is creeping up...:) ). The Nova won't be cheap...L-O-L. And if it doesn't sell, it can live happily in my garage. |
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I think you'll be surprised at how much attention it gets.Have you taken the Nova out for a shakedown ride yet?
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Awesome build Wayne. I love Novas as my first car was a 1972 version. The effort put into the smallest detail on this build amazes me.
Thanks for taking us along on the build :beers: Have a great time at the show as well.... |
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The Draggins Car Show came and went this Easter weekend. Getting ready was pretty much a thrash (aren't they all?). Just before the show, I decided I hated the Mopar SS spring suspension setup I had on the car. The fix was to rip everything out and install a set of Calvert split mono leaf springs and Smith Assassin traction bars (the Assassin bars are far more adjustable than Cal Trac bars and they don't bend springs).
Anyway, the first image is of Plain Jane on my pal Jeff Repski's open trailer, on the way to the show. As you can see, Winter is still here in a big way: https://i.imgur.com/jgAyJJEh.jpg Here are two photos of Jane in the show. You can see we had a lavish display...L-O-L: https://i.imgur.com/vSZtATah.jpg https://i.imgur.com/OarWY4Ph.jpg This is my pal Jeff's '66 Corvette. It's just a good old fashioned high quality hot rod. Jeff built this Vette from what could best be described as a rough project car, doing the body work, paint, mechanical and interior installation himself, in his own home shop. It is stellar. https://i.imgur.com/vuGCAGLh.jpg https://i.imgur.com/2k6511Lh.jpg The next image is courtesy of Jeff's wife Theresa. It's a loose interpretation of an old Instamatic photo we have of us (Jeff, long time buddy Bryon Marion, myself and my wife Cindy) from the same car show, 45 years earlier. https://i.imgur.com/xJV3SjAh.jpg I met all sorts of neat people -- even a couple of very knowledgeable fellow Supercar Registry folks. One of them (and I'm very sorry, I was tired and forgot names...) had -- in the show -- what I believe is the finest 1970 LS6 Chevelle I have ever laid eyes upon -- keeping in mind in my day job I have the opportunity to see more than a few really, really nice cars. I didn't take a photo, but the SS454 was white over black with black stripes. It was done by Rick Nelson and it was absolutely awe-inspiring. As most of you know, comments from spectators can be funny. One of my fav's was: "I have a Nova just like yours....but mine (his) is better...". L-O-L. One of Jeff's was: "I have a '66 Corvette just like yours....but mine is a (more desirable) split window..." Even though I never mentioned the car might be for sale, I had several offers on it. When I told them to bring a wheelbarrow full of cash for the car, (north of $100K) most withered. An older (older than us!) gentleman came up to Jeff and offered him a straight across trade with a brand new C8 Corvette. Jeff turned that down too. When it was all over, I was absolutely shocked to find Plain Jane won Best Street Machine (I'm pretty much wore out here....backstory: There was a good old-fashioned prairie blizzard Friday nite...howling wind and blowing snow. I buried my wife's Honda HRV in the driveway -- and our driveway is almost 1/4 mile long. We had to blow out the snow with our tractor/snowblower, shovel around and under the car, unhook the trailer and pull the car out with our 4X4. The wind finally subsided overnight, and just after daybreak yesterday, I spent several "quality hours: with the tractor and blower cleaning out the driveway again so I could actually get to the show with my pickup truck and Jeff's trailer. I survived...L-O-L...and of course, this coming week, temps are supposed to be near 70-degrees F.) https://i.imgur.com/0RbA2Dph.jpg |
Thx for the comments on the Chevelle, Wayne. Much appreciated. It picked up the award for the Restored class for 1970 and '71. It was great to meet you folks, see your cars and have a visit. Also learnt a few things including that you are a another Saskatchewan fellow and that we were almost neighbors many years ago!
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Seriously Oliver...
Nicest 1970 Chevelle (LS6 or otherwise) I have ever laid eyes on, and that's coming from a grizzled old magazine guy who has been in the biz for 4 decades. That car deserves every award it receives. And for those who haven't seen it -- if you have an opportunity to look at it -- you should. Simply amazing.:) |
Congrats Wayne...you deserved it bud!!
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Figured some of you might be interested in this video (actually, it's a combination video and slide show). It shows how I rework (blueprint, recurve) a stock Delco point distributor to trigger an MSD ignition box. This arrangement works exceptionally well, is reliable and looks pretty much stock. Also, if you go to some of my other videos, you can see more details on how Plain Jane was constructed.
https://youtu.be/brb5QnCGpN4 |
Great tutorial Wayne!
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Here's a short video of my Nova (aka "Plain Jane") idling in our driveway....Hope you dig it!
https://youtu.be/uiXzeQ-IP2c |
Coming soon is a "for sale" ad for the Nova (I'll shoot some fresh photos this week).
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GLWS Wayne.New project in the works bud?
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Thank you. There’s a really nice car I’d like to purchase. But additionally I have a ‘56 Mercury truck that needs my attention. The Merc is an old Farm two ton (M500), but the cab, hood, grille, rad support and a few other items interchange with pickups. I bought it because it only has 61,000 original miles with great sheet metal and original paint. Basically I bought it for the cab. The rest of the pieces to build a hot rod pickup truck are easy to get. :) I have the Merc for sale but if my Nova sells, I think I might keep it.
In case there is some confusion, my Nova is for sale. Ad will appear as soon as I get the photos done. |
Wayne beautiful car and excellent build! GLWS
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I am (almost) without words Wayne!! I'm doing a little bit on my Nova as I type this but nothing even close to what you've done!! Thanks for taking us along for the build. With all the details and assembly procedures. Just awesome!! I totally understand why you want to keep it.....it's definitely a "keeper"!! Thanks again!!
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