My fuel pump arrived today from Fred Ballard.

I decided that it is likely I will damage the original brake line running from the distribution block to the rear when I remove it (it is not cooperating at all right now even with persuasion in the form of penetrating oil) so I ordered a new one from Inline Tube along with their version of the flex hose to the rear axle lines and should have those by the weekend.

Fuel pump looks awesome!!:headbang:

Jake try a little heat on that brake line. I found when using a torch the heat will brake it free. Can't hurt!! Fuel pump looks great..

Jake,

Got any buddies with a repair shop by you? I'd bet they'd have something like this around......

https://www.jbtools.com/induction-in...EaAvD_EALw_wcB

Awesome for heating in tight spaces or in your case, keeping an open flame out. Back when GM had all of the fuel filters underneath and no one changed them til a problem occurred, this was the chit!

Tim

I have one of those and they are better than an open flame but he STILL needs to be careful with heat and brake fluid. It tends to expand a lot when heated above it's boiling point and can burst flex hoses.

Keep a wet towel around the brass block and lines you don't want heated and focus on just the flare nut to break it free. A propane torch will work, but keep the flame short and very sharp with just the point on the nut.
Also, and you probably know this, but use a line wrench to minimize distortion and slippage around the nut.

Update on the brake line...........life got in the way the last several weeks (all good and fun things) so I have not been able to spend much time solving this problem. I have soaked and soaked the fitting to no avail. I removed the distribution valve from the frame with the rear line still attached and last night tried heating it several times (to the point of being worried I was overheating it) and still no luck. I did buy a complete front to rear line set with the thought I'd just replace the whole line if I had to trash the original. After spending considerable time assessing the whole situation last night, replacing the whole line was not happening - at least not while laying on my back on the garage floor, so I picked a spot in the existing line that was straight and cut the line. Glad I did as the flare nut was rusted to the line where it goes into the valve and would not have moved with any of the methods I had available to me. The valve goes out today for rebuilding and I will gather the proper fittings to splice the original line together. I installed the rebuilt fuel pump and buttoned up most of the engine compartment with the exception of the fan and belts. Eventually I'll get there.......

Well that stinks, that the nut had to be such a PITA for you. Replacing a 1 piece brake, or fuel, line is nearly impossible with the body on. Can be done, but usually involves removing body bolts and lifting the body some.
Do you have access to a hydraulic double flaring tool for flaring the line on the car ? These are a wonderful tool for that and form a perfect double flare easily.
"Talking" on the internet, seems like we are just down the street and could help each other out with special tools, rather than hundreds of miles away...:frown:

https://www.yenko.net/forum/cache.ph...AC_SL1500_.jpg

My brother just got a new deluxe flaring tool that I'm sure he'd let me borrow.....:laugh:

A friend who owns a local shop also has the means to help so I think it will work out. Thanks for the suggestions.

FWI, I have replaced a front to rear brake line on a '67 Chevelle, on jack stands, without lifting the body. Should be similar to a '72.

Good luck! Bill W

Good to know Bill - it appears based on what I saw last night that there is one clip near the rear seat body mount that is fastened from the top and would be difficult (maybe not impossible) to remove and replace? Is that the only one?

That hydraulic flaring tool is the same one that I have. It works great.

x 10,000

That is the screw I have raised the body 1/2-3/4" to remove. It also gives a little "wiggle" room to maneuver the line around. Amazing what less than an inch of clearance can do to make a job go better.

Apparently there IS a difference from '67 to the later Chevelles. Only snap-in clips for the brake line on a '67, all easily accessible. Sorry!

Update on things.......got a call from Karp's this afternoon after 8 weeks and the brake distribution valve is not rebuildable, they can't get the front half apart, which explains why I could not get fluid to the front calipers. Sooooooo if anyone out there has a cast iron distribution valve for a March 72 Kansas built Chevelle with front discs I am interested....looks like the one pictured below. I will also post in the wanted section.

I had a similar looking "BENDIX" brake valve rebuilt for my brother's 73 Z28.
The company had never done the style before SO I sent 2 valves ONE for them to experiment with and the original from the car. Told them I didn't care what they did to the additional valve, I didn't get the "experimental valve returned but did get the original rebuilt for about $100. I know of at least one other Nasty Z28 board member who also had their vavle rebuilt by Old Auto Restorations.

Old Auto Restorations
James Ament
308 Cambridge Lane
Lititz, PA 17543

Jake I could not find the one I have somewhere.....I did remembered I have a frame from an Arlington built 72 W Code January Date that you are more than welcome to if you would like to give it a try.

Sure! Thank you very much. I'll PM you with my information. Appreciate it.

Big shout out to Joe Farrow (72convSS454) - he found a valve and sent it to me no charge. Thank you very much Joe! Much appreciated.

Off to the rebuilder's in hopes we can make this one work.

Awesome!!

Just heard back from the rebuilder last night - they were able to make the donor valve from Joe work and it is on it's way back. Now I need to get the line I cut repaired and put it all back together.

Joe's rebuilt valve finally showed up today.

Anyone know what finish it should be - natural cast, or black?

Will try and get painted tonight and install. Need to give the entire brake line replacement another go or learn how to use a flaring tool.........

Thanks again Joe - appreciate your generosity.

If you end up needing to make a double flair, get your hands on the hydraulic one I posted a pic of. The hand tool with the short handle is very difficult to get a good double over with and may leak.
I think O'Rielly's rents the hydraulic tool ??

Jake glad it was useable. From what I can tell it was left "natural" not plated or painted.
Here is a pic from my 72 Convertible.

My brother borrowed me his fancy one back in July - but after much consternation and a couple dozen under the car strategy sessions I decided to try and replace the entire front to back line this evening. Not so much fun laying on my back with the car on jack stands and a welded exhaust system in the way, but 3 hours later the new line is installed along with the new flex line in the rear that everyone says should be replaced anyways. Glad I chose this route.

Need to button things up and make final connections/adjustments/etc. so I can bleed the entire system. Progress pics to follow tomorrow to show what I did with the one clamp that is bolted to the top of the frame above the lower control arm forward mount and not accessible.

Thanks all for the suggestions.

Glad you got-r-done the right way, and yes, if that flex hose was original, it is most likely restricting fluid flow.

After bailing on the line replacement twice and realizing the flare/splice deal wasn't for me I decided that the only thing preventing me from replacing the entire line was the one clip attached to the top of the frame above the lower control arm mount - also right where the muffler resides. If I could deal with this then the whole thing would work. I was able to take a small Dremel-like cut off wheel and slice the end of the clip and pry it apart enough to remove the line. Not perfectly ideal but much better than having a line with a splice in it. In addition I didn't butcher the old clip so it will still work, albeit with an open end now. I also had to cut off the hard line connection to the rear flex hose as it was not budging. After that the old line came right out. Fishing the new line back in is was a bit of a challenge but doable. Again, being on my back vs. a lift I wasn't doing myself any favors. One piece of advice - leave the new line loose until the connection to the rear line and front distribution valve are made. I now need to make the line connections to the distribution valve, tighten the 2 bolts holding he valve to the frame and re-install the line clips before I bleed everything.

Persistence pays in order to get it right:worship:

Well done Jake:biggthumpup:

Spent some time buttoning things up under the car last night. Got all the fittings and lines tight and ready for fluid. Filled up the master cylinder to gravity bleed overnight, was excited that the front caliper bleeders started to flow fluid right away - but then noticed a drip - looks like the end of the rebuilt distribution valve is leaking.....ugh. No fluid to rears via gravity yet this morning either - but the entire line was replaced so didn't expect that to go as fast. I Have a call into the rebuilder on the leak. Old cars are great.

DANG !!
I was perusing ebay last night and there is another Malibu 400 like yours for sale in IL too. Same color. I did a double take and said, it can't be Jake's, his isn't safe to drive right now.

This week I will dig back into things and take valve off and send back to rebuilder.........probably a bad seal.

Any updates on the blue bomber?

I could just call you, but I figure others are wondering too.lol

Have a message into the rebuilder as to status of the valve........

So..........after numerous unreturned e-mails and phone calls over the last couple of months I finally was able to reach the rebuilder today. Turns out he can't get the valve to stop leaking and thinks there is an issue with the casting not being good. He also thinks now he has another core available that he can use and hopefully will have things finished up in a week or so. Should know in a couple of days. If he can't source a replacement casting I think I am going to move on and buy the brass one that is currently available from the parts houses and try and get this thing back on the ground and ready for the spring.

Well, that stinks, Jake. Sorry to hear this. Just when you think you've found a solution, this comes up.
The brass valve should be a direct replacement to use while you keep hunting for a good, original, core.

UPDATE.....Rebuilder found another valve, was able to rebuild it, successfully leak tested last week and it is on its way to me now. Hopefully will have it by the end of this week and can install over the weekend. Fingers crossed. :beers:

Excellent!!

:headbang: