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I got the 346 gear set in my new N24. I have the 335 gears in my old M23. The 346 gear set will reduce the large RPM drop from 3rd to 4th that I have with the 335 gears.
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I have a set of TT wheels with some NOS H/50 Mickey Thompsons I mounted on the car to see how the 50's look on 8.50 rims. I really like the look and the width, but these were just for mockup purposes and are actually too short a profile for this car. Next up will be to mount some taller 28" rear tires but that will not happen until the car is back from the body shop.
https://i.ibb.co/vjTkdKS/Rear-Profile.jpg https://i.ibb.co/L1HvNzd/Rear-Side.jpg https://i.ibb.co/qB8y9vz/IMG-3583.jpg https://i.ibb.co/1TtZzdm/IMG-3588.jpg |
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The gear spacing is extra wide and feels a little much, especially at some downshift situations..... Ryan W31 |
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I'm hoping for a better ET with the new gears. I should be able to get it on the track in about 2 weeks. Yes, it's a lot of fun.
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With some AMD sheet metal on its way to to repair the floors in this car, I have started pulling the body down to prepare it for a trip to the body shop in August. Starting with the firewall, I have removed the wiring harnesses, heater core, steering column, pedal carrier and the brake booster. The lower firewall and toe boards are going to need a little love and while that work is being performed, I'll be busy restoring the sub-frame, front brakes, and rebuilding the rear diff along with the original 4 leaf springs.
Today, I'm sending a set of motor mounts down to Nathan Schmidt at Sweet Ave Fabrication so he can mockup an engine block and frame for the correct Z/28 engine heights. He thinks the MT headers should be completed for September which is awesome. The rest of the Camaro parts I have on order should be along during the same time frame and that's when I'm hoping to have the car back with all the metal work completed and the floors and jambs painted up (fingers crossed). I'll follow that up by starting the assembly process and really hope to have this car finished up over the winter months. In the interim, it's almost down to the bare shell now and a good friend of mine is busy welding together a 2x2 rolling frame jig for the car to sit on. It'll support the front of the shell and the rear frame rails at the anchor points. This will make it easy to work on the car while moving it around as a roller and keeping it square. Once the metal work is finished up with new rear quarters installed it will move onto the rotisserie where the floors and firewall with get a couple coats of satin paint before the jambs are each dressed in yellow. The inside will also be cleaned up with all of the seams sealed before it also receives a new coat of paint. Seen below are a couple shots of the rear seat frame with the X 7 factory markings intact. Normally these markings are seen in yellow, but this car was factory marked in black? Is that because the inside of the car had yellow floor paint when built so an opposing marker color was used due to the overspray? First time I have seen black markings on a seat frame? https://i.ibb.co/Rcx9XDP/IMG-1346.jpg https://i.ibb.co/jgpnLtV/IMG-1347.jpg https://i.ibb.co/jJkRMQ8/IMG-1360.jpg https://i.ibb.co/QKMLLyY/IMG-1362.jpg https://i.ibb.co/58vW6SH/IMG-1339.jpg https://i.ibb.co/j5mDnYy/IMG-1338.jpg |
4.56 is a great ratio with a M20 wide box. I have 28" Mickeys on the back mounted on 6" Cragar rims and have ZERO issues. No problem driving on the highway at a reasonable RPM and MPH. No substitute for gearing in a SBC.
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Sam,
Doesn't matter which way I turn when I leave my place...and I'm on a 70mph highway with the nearest cruise destination being 30 to 60 minutes away. In saying that...4:56 gears are not even a consideration when I can use an extra wide first gear (2.99) and a 28" rear tire. At 70 mph with 3:73 rear gears I'll be running 3400 rpm. If I swap in 3:55 gears that drops to 3250 rpm. With 4:56 gears I'd be pulling 4200 rpm at 70 mph. (so not gonna happen buddy) lol |
OK Tripper, sounds like a plan. Didn't know you were going for that steep a first gear. Jody doing that Trans for you?
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No sir. Jeff Collins at Midwest Muncie is putting it together for me. Tough decision as they are both good builders, but Jeff had all the answers for me a second time around and earned the business.
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Still working away on the car here while the search is on for some good parts. I have a couple sYc members who have a number of good parts including many NOS trim pieces that are aligning well for use on this car. Should be hitting the body shop with it in just a couple of weeks.
In the interim, I'm hoping that an sYc member may have a swath or two of original 714 Yellow Houndstooth fabric available so I can repair the covers on the front buckets. I know the dye lots differ but would love to know if anyone has a couple chunks squirreled away that they would compare/share so I can maybe get one or two seats up and running with some original cloth? Here's a sample from Al Knoch (very bright vinyl) while I await samples from SMS and others. Looking for a more buttery vinyl. https://i.ibb.co/cLTbd2S/Less-bright...nyl-Please.jpg |
Had to get a bit creative while getting the diff out from under the car as it was sitting on the 4 post lift but it's out now and will soon be stripped down and rebuilt. The old ET cover is in great shape with some light oxidization and a few layers of dust. It will be properly restored when the housing is out being powder coated in the coming weeks. Lots to do as the car is out to have a frame jig built under it later this week, then it's off to the body shop for a month or two.
https://i.ibb.co/ckYf1Rw/IMG-1493.jpg https://i.ibb.co/MBD9mWY/IMG-1495.jpg https://i.ibb.co/LdfBNh3/IMG-1496.jpg https://i.ibb.co/zPGRwmf/IMG-1504.jpg |
It looks like it has a 10 bolt....Joe
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Looks like a 12 bolt to me?
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Yup...original 12 bolt rear dated BU 0224. When I first looked at the cover I thought cool, it has the ET style cover but it kinda looks deep from the top down view. Are they all this way with that sort of overall depth? Tearing into to this week with a full restoration planned for it including fresh powder coating. Also adding C-Clip eliminators and performance axle upgrades.
https://i.ibb.co/R2rbczq/IMG-1502.jpg https://i.ibb.co/CzcxP8T/12b.jpg https://i.ibb.co/xqWx47x/IMG-1503.jpg |
It always makes me sad to see someone take a nice original rear end like that and add c clip eliminators to it. When you do that the housing is permanently damaged. Do you really need them?
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To pile on, the C-clip eliminator kits tend to leak and do require irreversable changes to the tube interface. IMO if you aren't running slicks and sidestepping the clutch at 5k I would just buy a set of high quality replacement C-clip axles and call it good.
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Have already looked at C-clip axles and they won't cut it with tech now days. Car should make near to 500 horse and anyone who knows me knows I enjoy side stepping the clutch at 4K. This car will see the track on occasion and in order to meet tech it's going to need c-clip eliminators or a conversion to 9" ends as it will be running slicks. Either that or if I want to step it up, a complete housing upgrade. (I can already hear the cheers) I have considered a Moser 9" or maybe run a heavier Dana 60 and might go that route if I need a carrier and/or a new gear set. I'll know more on that next week and that may just be the option I choose so go easy here guys. I do not want a broken axle or torn up quarter panel just for the sake of saving an original set of axle tubes in a car that will never see the light of being a numbers car ever again. :stupid: |
Dana 60.........very day 2 like!
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The S60 is a nice rear end with some nice upgrades over the original Dana 60 rear end. It's also usually a little cheaper than some of the other options. Moser also makes an upgraded 60 rear end.
I changed gears in my 9 inch last week and found that the bearing cap bolts on the ring gear side had stretched and bent, and I'm using the best nodular case that Ford made. The bolts are 1/2 inch, compared to the 7/16 bolts in the 12 bolt. My axles also have some twist in them. I'm going to have to upgrade to 35 spline axles and an after market case with larger bolts and steel caps if I keep racing this thing. I'm making 563 HP. |
An aftermarket rear is never a bad idea but IMO you don’t need any of that at the power level you’re after. IIRC c clip eliminators are mandated only if you’re breaking into the 10s. Good luck with whatever you choose to do.
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I've always been a fan of keeping true to the manufacturer where possible and with the technology today there are a few nice 12 bolt housing/C clip eliminator set ups on the market.
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https://i.ibb.co/b38hYPr/Z28s.jpg |
If you wanted to stay with a 12 bolt the Moser 12 bolt has very thick bearing caps with 1/2 inch bolts and 1/4 inch thick seamless axle tubes with 9 inch Ford housing ends that have the Chevy brake bolt pattern. It's much stronger than the Chevy 12 bolt.
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That’s a Cal Custom diff cover FWIW, circa 1972 up. A moser housing with .250 wall DOM tubes, heavy caps & billet axles are $1300 , far better than the GM production seamed axle tubes and cast caps, which are the weak link. With complete original 12 bolts bringing $3500 + , maybe a option Graeme? |
Probably not a bad idea Mike. Was going to rebuild it and beef it up, but building a new Moser diff is so much more in line with what this car actually needs. Planning on a 9K screamer for it in the future so I might as well build the diff I am going to need down the road.
I'll figure out what to do with this one later and might offer it up locally. |
Still working away with things and had a better look at all of the original interior upholstery today to see what can be saved. We are confident that the rear covers can be saved and we pulled them off the frames today so I can start deep cleaning the vinyl. Once scrubbed down, they will head off to the dry cleaners to see how the fabric cleans up. From there, my upholsterer will sew new piping onto the patterns to bring them around.
https://i.ibb.co/jTvSLN7/Rear.jpg The rear covers are filthy, but they really look like they will clean up. https://i.ibb.co/dM2Rm9C/Back.jpg Once the vinyl is clean, the covers will go to the dry cleaners. https://i.ibb.co/YW8xV04/Bottom.jpg The frames will be stripped down and soaked in evapo-rust to restore them before rebuilding them. We can probably save the front vinyl too...but the drivers seat will require a couple of custom made repair panels and likely a little dye work to make it all match up once the covers are deep cleaned. I am in need of houndstooth fabric for the centers and need to flip some stones to see if I can find a set of original rear covers to graft some original cloth from (anyone know of a set or original rear seat covers???). The rear patterns should fit the bucket inserts so I am really hoping someone has kept an old set of rear covers that I can purchase? If that fails then new fabric will be used for the centers and the vinyl will then be rebuilt as mentioned above. Also found a couple used seat backs that will dye up nicely to match the yellow vinyl after its all cleaned and restored. https://i.ibb.co/kSBCmH1/Possible.jpg If I can find another set of rear covers, the material can graft into these buckets??? https://i.ibb.co/ZGyWqzY/Buckets.jpg These frames will also be cleaned up once the covers are off to be worked on! Someone has already done some clean up on the slides. I'll make them better! https://i.ibb.co/4KDV6Ck/Seat-backs.jpg Found these rear seat backs in the upholsterers pile of spare parts. These will dye rather nicely and should be easily matched up. Once all the tedious work is done, these will head over to Chad at Fibrenew. He's a vinyl repair master craftsman who can patch and dye just about anything. |
In other good news, it looks like we can save the original door panels and the head rests as well. A previous owner dyed some of the ABS stuff with SEMS black and I already started testing a few spots to see if I can remove the black, and I can. The yellow color underneath is the right shade of yellow and for whatever it takes...I will spend the time needed to bring them back. They will also head over to Chad at Fibrenew for a few vinyl repairs and some new carpet along the bottoms once they are cleaned up.
The rears can also be saved but we may try some new vinyl on the back panels and again dye it up to match at the same time as doing the seat backs. The head rests are actually in really good shape and trust they will also clean up once the black dye is removed. I'll then get a couple new sets of white hinge covers and some new finger cups for the doors which will also be dyed yellow. I'm thinking the interior is going to look right at home when this Air Force Brat is brought full circle. I'll add pics of the door panels a little later this evening and will post some progress pictures as they are being cleaned. Won't be easy...but it'll be done right! https://i.ibb.co/6ZsY1nS/IMG-1568.jpg Door panels before they are steamed and deep cleaned https://i.ibb.co/fY6W1Q0/IMG-1569.jpg A little test spot to see how the black dye can be removed https://i.ibb.co/0rwkV0W/IMG-1571.jpg Original rears that will receive new vinyl and some dye work to match https://i.ibb.co/8rDD6qd/IMG-1572.jpg Original head rests which are in really good shape overall https://i.ibb.co/2v5GgzF/IMG-1573.jpg Both sides are dated and these should clean up nicely (fingers crossed) |
Righteous effort going on right there. Can't wait to see the results!
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Did some background digging on the car this past week and got in touch with a couple previous owners. I talked with a previous titled owner (William F.) of Brainerd Minnesota where I knew the car had made a brief stop in the late 80's. Turned out he owned it for a few years and then sold it to a friend (Larry C.), who moved it to another friend (Jay D.), who later sold it into PA where it landed with another Camaro guy. He then sold it to Fred L. (previous owner to me) who had owned it for the past 25 years before selling it this summer.
As best as William could recall, the car has been off the road since the early 1980's from what he knew. He's the same age as me (54) and said when he owned it from about 86-89 that he wanted to restore it as he knew what he had, but said he was young and that funds were a bit tight as he already owned other car including a Chevelle which he has kept all these years. He also told me who he bought the yellow Z from, and who had owned it prior to that. Both guys were local and he said both of them were total car guys. He then went on to say the first of the two guys had a few hot cars back in the 70's and 80's and he was known for hell raising around Brainerd MN with his cars. In fact, he told me that this particular owner used to roast the tires right in front of the local police station in Brainerd. I laughed because you know the cops are going to have your number when you're driving a yellow on yellow car. From what was discussed with William, it sounds like these guys drove their cars hard, and apparently had some fun with their street machines around the little drag race town. In the past few weeks, I've gone through the car thoroughly and had discovered a few early patch panels welded into the car from one of the previous owners, one of which had me scratching my head a bit? It included some graft work with a section of another car welded in as a repair to the front tunnel area and lower cowl section. I discussed this with Fred L. who arrived with the determination that it must have been a repair from a clutch explosion. It was like a light bulb switched on when he said that. Sure enough, I quickly learned from William that he had grafted in a tunnel section from another car as he got the yellow Z with some previous floor damage due to the clutch having exploded prior. He went on to tell me he stick welded it out in his driveway and froze has butt off in doing so. I can only imagine it was the off season and I know it gets cold in northern Minnesota. I have since reached out to the earliest owner known to the car and he was kind enough to call me back earlier this morning. We only chatted for a few minutes as he's busy working on a project today, but shared a few laughs and talked about the tunnel quickly. Turns out he bought the car with some floor damage up in the tunnel and said that the original 302 motor was killed when the clutch exploded. The subsequent damage took out the crank, the block and the M21 that was in it. He said we'd talk more tonight but was excited to learn of the cars existence and said, hang tight and I'll text you a couple pictures to keep you revving until we talk again. Yeah I got two texts a few minutes later...and you can only image how wide my eyes opened when he texted me with the following pics. He sent me the yellow picture shown below, followed by the second picture. All I can say is Bingo! More in the coming days as I chase down the rest of the history and talk with as many people as possible. I'm over the top here just a bit today. https://i.ibb.co/0BrQsLw/Z28-Robin-Conklin.jpg Pictured here when owned by Robin Conklin - Circa 1980's https://i.ibb.co/1XWCQ1b/Invoice-Auran.jpg A little surprise texted to me from Robin earlier this morning. I'm on it now! |
That is so cool! Tracking down previous owners is such a big part of owning these cars. I have been fortunate to find 2 original owners!
Keep it coming. |
Dealer invoice and fossil photos!!
Jackpot!! Ryan W31. |
Wow what great info to find out! Those connections don't happen every day.
I used to run those Polysteel tires on my Z back in my autocross days in the late 70's, early 80's. They were surprisingly great for that! John |
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Now you need to find an endura bumper ! Attachment 170594 |
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What great detective work!!
Now the question is, what direction does it get restored? Day 2? As delivered? What a great looking car.... now I really regret not acting on it!! Can’t wait to see this one done. |
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