Nice choice on the valve covers I recently bought a set with a set of the hard to find M/T breathers however I’m polishing mine! Your car looks great.

Thank you! Its coming together nicely now!

Now onto finding a set of Cragar S/S or slot mags for the front and Lakewood ladder bars for the rear!

In terms of ladder bars is it best to use the style that replaces the lower control arms or bolt to the sides?

??

I had a set of the bolt on Lakewood ladder bars on my '67. The bars were longer than the lower control arms, so it screwed up the suspension geometry and made the ride very stiff.

I had a set of the NMWs which I believe are the same as the Lakewood stuff. The car rode as if it didn't have any suspension and on the track it was even worse. I quickly pulled them off and was glad I did because they were cracking the frame where they bolted up. And this was even after I made a .250 reinforcement plate for the inside of the frame where it bolted to.

I just took the mount off of the front and left the bars on it. I thought they looked cool.

YIKES! I like the look but don't want to effect or damage the car!

I like the look but don't want any of the horror stories.

I will admit they sure looked cool, but sure aren't worth the effort. Spend your money elsewhere..

I think I will. On to finding a set for front runner wheels Crager's, Keystone, Slot Mags ect.

You can get the ladder bar look with a set that just replaces the lower control arm. I have seen a few sets on ebay from time to time.
The ladder bars that replace the lower control arms, might not be from the aftermarket company's like Lakewood,MNW etc..
They were rubber bushed as well so other than being lower than the stock control arm they should act the same way.
The race tracks do not want to see any suspension or other part mounted lower than the bottom of your rim.
This rule is in place for safety. If a tire goes flat and the part digs into the track it can cause a car to loose control.
I know the axle mount bolt on ladder bars sit quite low and may not be legal to run at tracks that have a good safety tech in place.
The bolt on lower control arm ladder bars might sit to low as well?

Nice car!!

Here are the ladder bars that I was referring to in my last post.
These may be home made?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-196...temCondition=4

Sam Griffith has a set of those on his '69 L78 Chevelle.

I seen that. I have a offer on a set just waiting to hear back.

Never heard back from the guy with the ladder bars but got a smoking deal on a set of boxed lower control arms just need to get a rear sway bar next. Maybe one day we will get ladder bars.

How Day 2 are these wheels for front runners?

Too late for day 2 in my opinion, but that's just my opinion.

Those Welds scream The 80's to me, JMHO.

I have a pair of 15x4 1/2 slots i may sell

My thoughts exactly just wanted to see what everyone else thought. Thank you!

Just a thought. You can still buy Indy sprints from Jegs in a 15 x 5, wrap them with a 6.70 and you are good to go.

Loving the look of the M/T valve covers. I have the long "T" studs to install. Need an oil fill cap as well. What looks best a chrome or black breather???

Black,

Just a suggestion but maybe ditch the HEI if you're shooting for the Day 2 look.

And take the stickers off of the alternator and put a steel fan on it.

Will do!

looks like a chunk out of the fan shroud. do you have a broken motor mount?

I like the chrome breather :)

I would get a 90 degree PCV Hose....it would look way better.

Do the same for your intake heater hose....perhaps a 45 degree. Again, it`s all about a clean and flowing looking engine bay.

I agree, ditch the HEI.

Dan

When I bought the car unknown to me at the time the bolt either fell out or was never there on the right side. Have a new shroud to put in.

Great eye I am in search for the 90's as we speak.

Ground Up sells the 90 degree PCV Hose, no plastic elbow required :)

Dan

I'll look em up today thank you Dan!

On ward to air cleaners. I have a chrome open element right now with the 396 call out. Should I stick with that or go with a fly eye, velocity style or other??

----A lot of aftermarket air cleaners look cool, but I think the factory open element AC is as good or better than all of them. They have a really good air flow into the carb while doing a good job of stopping any bad stuff. I might be wrong but I don't even think a Fly Eye style is as good filtering out the bad stuff!..….Bill S

David Freiburger did an air breather shootout that I watched, and you are bang on there. Old style breathers with a good filter did really well. Some velocity stacks did ok while taller ones didn't, and most of those low profile filters flowed very poorly or simply caught fire (which the Fly eye breathers did a lot due to the foam elements). Best bank for the buck was a stock base and lid with a good quality filter. Even those K&N breather tops added for additional flow seemed to disturb the air flow to the carb which surprised me. It was interesting to see the results of all their tests.

----Every now and then my old brain works OK!...…..Bill S

I did just watch that episode of engine masters. I think I'll upgrade the filter but keep my factory open unit.

T handles or standard bolts for the valve covers??

Also to paint the heads or no? Had work done on them last summer and never painted them prior to reinstalling them.