I'm interested to know what company will chrome the wheels without cutting them apart and the cost.

I recently sent some Keystone wheels to be cut up, had the offset changed, rechromes and put back together. Will post up pics and total cost when I have them back.

Its not ideal from a purest point of view, but I don't think it looks horrible its just different.
Back in the 80's the blue or brown tint chrome was a sign of quality "show chrome".

This is the shop one of the members used to have a set done.
I personally think the wheels turned out very nice and would be happy with this level of restoration.
http://www.atlaschrome.com/

You will have to call for pricing 15 X 4 with out pits and no cap $325 US each "NO Guarantee"

I used Atlas in Houston TX. Three years ago the price was 250.00each. They did a good job and the turn around was a reasonable time. There’s no guarantee and one of them had a small flake up area where the spoke met the rim start about a year later. They replated that wheel at a reduced price of 150.00.
Like I said earlier it’s not cheap if you want a set of old school Cragars.
Richard

Cragar stuff
 

Bernhard what kind of “stuff” do you plan on putting in the gap between the spoke and rim. I haven’t done that yet and was thinking clear Lacquer. What you think?

Hi Richard
The price has gone up since you had your rims re-chromed.
I was going to look into a clear sealer that they use on gas fittings in labs.
I also thought about using a clear coat that is water resistant.
I don't know how water resistant clear lacquer is, when I was in trade school I was told that lacqure absorbed water.

Non R caps
 

Good non R caps are getting hard to come by also. I got a set of four NOS non R’s from a local guy recently.

Nice
I picked up some very nice originals off of ebay.

The product I was thinking about using is similar to this sealer.
http://www.sashco.com/products/lexel/

http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/6...ealant-230.pdf

https://conspecmaterials.com/shop/se...clear-sealant/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5yCVpNT2eMI

I would test any product before using it to seal my rims.

For your viewing pleasure. I separated this set in preparation for re-chroming. It looked as if they were re-chromed in one piece at one time with bad results.

Thanks for posting.

How was the center section removed?
How do you ensure the wheel is true before re-welding?
Metal is lost from the mounting tab's when it is cut free from the rim.
I also assume more mounting tab metal is lost during weld area prep for re-welding, (the removal of chrome plating from the tabs and rim to allow re-welding).
How do you compensate for loss in mounting tab material?

The above questions are not intended to be negative. They are to clarify the process and what is required to preform this level of wheel restoration.

Thanks
Bernhard

If you're very judicious when you remove the weld I don't see an issue (FYI I am a degreed materials engineer). Obviously the quality of the weld is important, and I would be building a fixture to ensure the lug plane and rim edge were as parallel as possible.

I have seen some cut the wheels apart on the lathe. What would you consider a good method to use to separate the rim from the center section?
What about using a cutoff wheel with a light touch?

I had a professional wheel shop do mine. They cut the wheel apart by using a lathe then built up metal back via tig welding onto the remaining steel tab what was lost in the lathe process and then lathed that down to a factory tab would have looked before welding back together.

They used a jig the center the wheel to make usre it was round and also no side play etc.

Is the shop still doing Cragar rims?
Cost?