Thanks everyone for the positive responses. Love this car and the look shes got now

The nitto tread pattern

:beers:

Better tread pics

Chevelle..
 

Love the stance...all business!

-wilma

I think maybe A SOUND CLIP may be in order. ����

Will do soon once we get the tune on the new carb running right

Have had an amazing summer with some set back but thats what you get when you take over someone elses project. Worse part was in August when all 5 wheel studs broke loose in the hub on the right front wheel while driving with the family. ruined the brake rotar and wheel. Changed out the wheels to the old rally wheels with new chrome lug nuts (IMO it gives it a more 60's racer look. Git the new Holley 770 Street Avenger on as well as a new 3000 stall and Hellwig front sway bar. Starting to collect parts for the winter to replace the intake manifold, rear control arms and rear sway bar and swap out the 3:42 rear gear for a 3:73.

----Met you over at Stahls one cruise night. I was Ryans friend. Are you going to be out at the Gratiot cruise this Saturday? If so look for my gold 67 El Camino. Not sure where Ill be but there somewhere.......Bill S

Glad I couple introduce a few MI guys!!!

Ryan

----You east of the border guys are all right! I don't care what anyone says......Bill S

I missed the cruise. Went down to Lansing to pick up my new intake manifold for the Chevelle. Cant wait to put it on!

Picked up a new Edelbrock Performer RPM intake manifold for the car a few weeks back. Cant wait to put it on in the spring!

1 year ago today I purchased this car. Its been a great year. Lots of little hurdles with this car but shes coming together now.

I want to swap out the 3.23 rear gear. What do you all recommend be the best gear for it??? Mild built 396 TH350 (I know I need a TH400) w/ 2800 Stall 10 bolt rear end (I need a 12 bolt)

What do you want to do with the car? The right gear ratio depends on the use of the car. If you have a 8.2 10 bolt then the factory ratio would be 3.36, not 3.23. The 3.23 and 3.42 are 8.5 10 bolt ratios. Someone could have swapped a '71-'72 Cutlass or Skylark 8.5 into your car, so you need to know what rear end you have.

The TH350 can be built plenty strong for the 396. No need for a TH400. Just replace the 2nd gear drum and sprag and a few other parts and you have a very strong TH350 that will be quicker than the TH400, and you don't have to change the cross member and drive shaft.

A 12 bolt would be nice if you have the money. The '67 Chevelle 12 bolt is one of the highest priced 12 bolt rear ends right now. They were a one year only rear end and kind of hard to find. If you are not worried about it being an original rear end then the Moser rear ends are stronger than the Chevy rear ends and you can order it any way you want.

I never took the cover off to verify but when I bought the car the owner said it was a 3.23 From the pics I have seen for reference it appears to be a 8.2 still has the posi tag on it as well. I want to drive the car still on main roads don't really do any freeway driving. If I am going long distance on the highway I rather trailer it anyways. I have a 8.5 3.73 from my old 72 442 I would use if in fact it was a 8.5 :(

Can you post a picture of the center part of the rear end? Show the cover and the area around the cover.

Here you go. Don't mind it being dirty I need to detail the underside this coming spring.

That is the 8.2 10 bolt. The ratios that are available for that rear end are 2.73, 3.08, 3.36, 3.55, 3.73, 4.10 and 4.56. Which one is right for you depends on how you will drive the car, how the engine is built, what transmission you have and how tall the rear tires are.

If you are going to swap it for a 12 bolt then don't put any money into this rear end. You can locate a 12 bolt and build it or get one from a builder and have it built the way you want it. Any of the A body 12 bolt rear ends will fit your car, but there are some differences in them. The '65 and '66 rear ends have flat spring perches and the spring is held in place with a spring retainer that has a bolt through the center. The '67 to '72 rear ends have a raised center on the spring perch that holds the spring in place. The '65 to '67 rear ends are 60 inches wide over all and the '68 to '72 rear ends are 61 inches wide over all. So the '67 is all by its self with the late spring perch and the early over all width. You will have to use a 12 bolt left upper control arm or modify your 10 bolt arm to fit the 12 bolt.

Thanks for the info I have no Idea now what gear is in it. What is the best way to find out?

The best way is to remove the cover and count the teeth on the ring gear and pinion. There are other less accurate ways. If it has a standard differential then you can raise one wheel off the ground and turn the wheel exactly 2 full turns. Count the number of times the drive shaft turns. If it turns 3 1/3 times then it's a 3.36. If it turns just over 3 times then it's a 3.08. If it turns 2 3/4 times it's a 2.73...... If it has a limited slip differential then raise both wheels off the ground and turn them exactly 1 turn and count the times the drive shaft turns. Both wheels must turn exactly 1 turn.

It is a factory posi rear end

Gearing up for spring. Going to replace the intake manifold and have to replace the push rod guide plates. Does anyone have any procedures on how that is done?

Intake/Guide Plates..
 

I saw you posted that you had a new Edelbrock intake...but, why do you need to change the guide plates..?? Is there an issue..??

Intake swap is pretty straight forward...prep the car for the project [fender covers, drain pan for coolant, have your tools organized, boxes/bags for bolts and hardware...cleaning solvents, rags, lighting...mostly common sense stuff.

-mark distributor location so you can re-install correctly

-you will need new intake gaskets, t/stat gasket, carb gasket [maybe]

-take some photos with digital camera as a reference before anything is taken apart...this will help if you forget where something goes.

-be careful with fuel lines and gas...

-work clean, take your time

if you do have to change guide plates...?? then the valve covers will need to come off..[maybe new gaskets here]...change them one at a time and try to get the pre-load adj. on the rocker nut to the same spot...you will have to an adjustment after they are all completed.

good luck

Here is something that I do every time I remove an intake manifold. After draining the radiator I remove the thermostat and use an air hose to blow out all of the coolant that is in the cross over. This way no coolant will get into the oil when you pull the intake off. I wiped out all of the bearings in a 302 Ford many years ago because I didn't get the coolant out of the intake and it got into the oil.

Guide plates are mostly broken was discovered when I changed out the valve covers. So they MUST be replaced to be able to enjoy and drive the car how it should be driven (hard)

I change the oil every time I do an intake swap

Heat risers (if re-using intakes) should be removed to clean carbon.
The cleaning process will loosen carbon deposits and it will be sucked through the motor causing catastrophic damage.

Thanks I'll do that!

Thanks for the link. I know how to swap the intake. The valve lashing and guide plate replacement is what I need to learn.

Been awhile since I updated. The car had a awesome summer last year and this winter we got her ready for the Detroit autorama. Heads were completely gone through and have all new springs and retainers. Had the HEI on my buddies SUN machine and had it curved. Now going for a day 2 style look. I love the way it turned out. Hope you all enjoy!

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