Re: My "shop find" Bullitt Stang!
 

Uh oh..... Don't tempt me Mike!! Sounds like an open invitation! [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif[/img]

[img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/youguysrock.gif[/img]toooo!!!

Cheers [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/beers.gif[/img]

Dave

Re: My "shop find" Bullitt Stang!
 

Even if you do not bring a car it is a great time, especially Thursday and Friday [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/beers.gif[/img]

Mike

Aug 4th and 5th

Re: My "shop find" Bullitt Stang!
 

Ok, so I might have taken the Bee off the rotisserie ( I'll update that here in the next few days). And I might have had the interior already out, sort of, looking for that build sheet. And the plasma cutter was already plugged into the wall....sooooooooo [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/hmmm.gif[/img]
https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...201_060154.jpg
https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...201_060326.jpg
https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...201_060430.jpg

Its a real simple process putting in a whole floor. Just some trimming along the edges to do, clean up the adjacent pans, make sure the metal is straight, place the floor in, mark a line around the edge for proper pan depth along the rockers, mark plug weld holes, remove pan, drill out plug well holes, place pan back in car, drill out pilot holes for self tapping screws to secure floor to rockers and frame rails, screw down floor, weld, grind welds flat, spray red oxide primer on floor, post on Yenko.net [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/grin.gif[/img] See? Easy! [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/thumbsdown.gif[/img]

Cheers [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/beers.gif[/img]

Re: My "shop find" Bullitt Stang!
 

https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...201_061719.jpg
I replaced the decklid since that suffered the same fate as the hood with rust, but other than that, this is the only rust spot left on the car to deal with. A very small patch on the outside and a tad on the outer wheel house. The trunk drop off is mint! [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif[/img]. So I guess once this is done next month I'll send it to the blasters and have him do his magic. And if history has taught me anything, it'll be that when I get it back it'll have holes all over the place and need rockers, a roof, door jamb, and the new floor I just put in will need replacement! [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/rolleyes.gif[/img]. Love this hobby!!! [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif[/img]

Cheers [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/beers.gif[/img]

Re: My "shop find" Bullitt Stang!
 

And here we go, again! [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/headbang.gif[/img]

Re: My "shop find" Bullitt Stang!
 

https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...9-dscn2225.jpg
Looking like after the clean up and grind down, I&quot;m just about ready for the new pan to go in. The inner rockers on these Mustangs are a glavanized finish. I'm thinking when it comes time to weld it's gong to be a little bit of a splatter fest.

https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...0-dscn2226.jpg
https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...1-dscn2228.jpg

Frames ground down, and everything was in good shape internally, sans some surface rust. I used some rust converter to stop the rust and then after a day of sitting, sprayed a liberal (lousy liberals) amount of red oxide primer inside the rails....

https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...2-dscn2229.jpg
https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...3-dscn2230.jpg

Overall, not too bad. The rear floor sections were in great shape except for right above the right rear frame rail. I'll cut that out and the new floor will join up against that section so I can stitch weld that in place. No seams visible from underneath! The goal is a factory look (of course...what else did you expect?!?! [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/hmmm.gif[/img] ) When it comes times to weld the new pan in I'll grind away the primer where the surfaces are joined so I have nice bare, fresh, clean metal. Once that's all done and everything is solid, another round of correct tint red oxide primer! [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif[/img] Once the main pan is in place, I'll start the rest of the teardown of the car an hopefully have it on the twirler next month and off to the blaster! WOO HOO!!!!! [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/headbang.gif[/img] All the areas I'm missing will be taken care of by the media blast dude, and the red primer now is just to protect the metal while it sits in the 1000% HOUmidity of HOUston [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/thumbsdown.gif[/img]

Man....what am I doing? I'm not finished with one and starting in on another! Anyone have a 69 Judge they want to send my way so I can take a whack at a GM product? [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif[/img]

Cheers [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/beers.gif[/img]

Re: My "shop find" Bullitt Stang!
 

where you cut the rear floor around the frame rail is a good idea. I just did a 1 piece floor in a 67 and the stamping was short on both sides where it attaches to inner wheel well.
Looks like a solid car. The quarters on these Mustangs fit real nice. I replaced both quarters outers and a roof skin on the Shelby I'm working on the panels all fit exceptional.

Re: My "shop find" Bullitt Stang!
 

No kidding? Good info! I'm hoping to get the floor in later this month, the week after Christmas. It's sitting against the wall waiting to go in. Hopefully end of January it'll be on the rotisserie and off to the blaster. These holidays get in the way [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif[/img]

Cheers [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/beers.gif[/img]

Re: My "shop find" Bullitt Stang!
 

The 1 piece floor will go through the passenger side door and you will need a little help, another set of hands did wonders for me. I couldn't get the 1 piece floor up from the bottom of the car. I replaced both toe boards both torque box extensions added the passenger side torque box early 67 didn't have them I guess. The owner wanted it installed. Overall every sheet metal part we got for the car fit pretty good. I have a bunch of pictures If you get into a bind on something.

So with Bullitt fever hitting the waves, I figure I better get going on the Stang-a-Roo since 2018 is fast approaching and I'll be bringing this car to MCACN next year!:cool2:. I had to back off of it to make sure there were no snags on the Bee, and now that it's looking pretty close to being finished, I can start back into it. I'll finish the floor installation next month and will have the car stripped down and on the rotisserie. In the meantime, I got the numbers matching engine on the engine stand and talked in depth to a builder about repairing my block. It doesn't seem like it's going to happen. One cylinder has two cracks and those cracks are connected at the top about 1" down from the top part of the cylinder. He's pretty sure it's not a good candidate for a sleeve. I'm pretty bummed by I don't want to build an engine and have it leak later on down the road. So I think I'm going to build the engine with my spare block, which just happens to be from another 68 Mustang GT, and continue the quest to have this fixed at a later point. I'm just not sure it can be done. :dunno::confused2:

Cheers:beers:

I mean.....I had to take a nice shot of the license plate!!:grin::cool2::biggthumpup:

Cheers:beers:
Dave

Dave
Aaron took this at the Piston Power show in Cleveland , just for your viewing enjoyment...:biggthumpup:

Mike

Man.....that sure is purrrrrrdy! Not real sure about the guy in the chair though.......kind of has that "You toucha my car, I breaka you face" look to him!:grin:

Cheers:beers:

Look closely -- there appears to be an UZI in that bag next to him ... LOL

Old guy, I thinks we woke him up from his nap...:tongue:

LOL -- you talkin' about me or him?!? TAZ

Now that the Bee is wrapping up, I'm turning my attention to the ole' Stang-a-tang. I've had several before this one: 66 Coupe (my first car), 67 GTA Fastback, three other 67 Fastbacks that were turned into 68 GT500 tributes, a Mach, and a Boss. Both of which I flipped and really didn't do too much to other than clean and detail. So I'm starting to dig into the details like I know on the Mopars, and it's been an interesting road so far. Lots of good info out there and just like the other makes, lots of confusion.

I for one was under the impression that the Mustangs were all Red Oxide primer underneath. Well, not so. Dearborn was one of those plants that eventually used leftover paint from the day before, all mixed together, and sprayed on the underside. Commonly called "batch paint", and not "slop gray" that is used for other parts on the car. This resulted in a wide range of dark grays, to black, to even a metallic style green/silver/brown. I sprayed my rails with Red Oxide thinking this was correct for my car, which, after some investigative investigation, found that it's not!

My car has undercoating sprayed all underneathe and everywhere I scraped it off, found a very dark, dark, blue/gray...almost black paint under it. It's very hard to see in the pics, since it looks black, but taking flakes out into the sun reveals a very dark blue/gray color. NEAT!!!!!:grin::grin::grin:

Here's a shot where the fuel line protective shroud on the Driver's side rear torque box was bolted down, and you can see the primer color. No Red Oxide evidence anywhere on my car. The other picture if the rear frame rail on the passenger side. :biggthumpup::biggthumpup::biggthumpup::biggthumpu p:

And lastly, what the heck is up with my darn camera!!?!?!??! I can't seem to get a good shot lately:dunno::dunno::dunno:

Fortunatley, I have a gallon of leftover epoxy primer from the Bee that I can add some more black to, a well as maybe some blue/green, to get the right shade. That color is also on the transition panel over the axle, rear frame rails, and gastank/trunk floor panels. Neat stuff!!!!:biggthumpup:

Cheers:beers:

Although owning my own Fred Flintstone mobile is tempting, I figure for safety purposes, I better install a floor. So, in goes a one piece pan! Easiest was to install this was on the lift from the underside. With the doors on, no way from a geometry standpoint(and I'm no good at math...I'm gooder at English:hmmm:) that was going to fit in that tiny opening. More pics on the camera and these are just a few from the phone, but the floor has been in and out several times to drill plug welding holes, and it's the only way to install a full pan for sure!:biggthumpup:

Here's with the pan laying in, screwed down, and a few welds in place to make sure it's aligned correctly. I used a torch and a hammer for persuasion in some areas to make sure no gaps and sheet metal screws cinched it up perfectly! Last one piece I installed was a 68 Convertible and of course, that was nice and easy form the top!:biggthumpup:

Today I'll finish the welds, grind smooth, prime, and seam seal. After that, gas tank comes out for a small rear crossmember patch, and I'll start in on the lower driver's quarter panel patch. That'll be it for the rust on this one! I'll have it disassembled and off to the blaster at the end of the month! :shocked: I think I may be the first person that has already registered for MCACN 2018!!!!:hmmm::biggthumpup::crazy:

Cheers

And yes, all the red oxide was sanded off for a clean, metal to metal surface to weld up against. And notice the car in relation to the other, NICE, car....."No Bees were harmed in the filming of this floor pan installation":biggthumpup:

As I'm researching more into the Mustang Realm, I've found a few cool things that were changes mid 68. Notice the real side marker bezels on my car. They consist of a reflector and a surrounding painted bezel. Sometime around February due to a strike at Ford and a cost cutting measure, 68s switched to the 68 Cougar side marker bezel. Also, early in December, the lower center dash pad, commonly called a knee pad, was removed. March timeframe, the A-Pillar trim pads were removed. My car was a late December build. I have A-Pillar pads, no knee pad, and the reflector and bezel, non-Cougar, style rear side marker.

Neat stuff!!!!!:smile::smile:

Cheers:beers:

Dave

What a difference a one piece makes. I did the same on my 69 Camaro. Nice job on both the Mustang and your Mopar machine.

May I suggest CLR for the roof? Just to see how well it works?
Is the Day 2 exhaust staying on the car?

I have heard that Dave finally wore out his welder.

A moment of silence please.

Luckily there are many more to be had.

Phil Woj

Yes, Phil, it was a sad day indeed...Please to be redirected to comment on Ginger's passing in the "Lounge" section at your leisure....

https://www.yenko.net/forum/showthread.php?t=142339

But, moving on, before the unfortunate passing happened, I was able to get the floor welded up! The Stangatang is about 95% rust free now!!!!:biggthumpup:

Cheers:beers:

Floor in, primed up, and now I'm onto the remaining rust parts. A small patch on the lower driver's quarter panel, and part of the rear brace that the gastank mounts to, and the car will be rust free!:eek2: After I pulled the tank I removed the sending unit. It's a rather unique one since it has the low fuel warning sensor on it. I'm going to send this out for a rebuild which, surprisingly, can be done and even more of a shocker is the fact that the float arm still moves freely!!!:smile: But, meanwhile, back in the trunk, I noticed a nice factory curtain that might have got past Quality Control:biggthumpup:

Ford..."Quality is Job Run!":tongue::tongue::tongue:

I also laid out the exhaust system that came with the car. Part numbers still on the pipes to boot! Although I can't seem to reference them based on those numbers. I thought it was for a smallblock 289/302 since the 289 is in the part number, but they mate up to the factory 390 exhaust manifolds.:dunno: They aren't going back on the car, but it still would be nice to know what vintage they are.

Cheers

In continuing the continuation of continuing on, I continued the teardown of the Stang after welding up the lower back quarter and rear trunk brace/gas tank holder down thingy. I know, pretty technical terms I'm throwing out here, but I've set the trend with another thread, and this type of nonsensical banter is to be expected :thumbsdown: I haven't done a Mustang in a long, long time, nor have a done one with the Convenience Group, so there's a bit more wiring involved which means plenty of pics to lose between now and reassembly:dunno:

Time to get out some plate steel and start making braces for mounting it up onto the twirler!!!:biggthumpup::biggthumpup: And, get out the baggies and boxes to get all these parts up into the storage area on top of the mezzanine, that was JUST freshly cleaned up from Bee parts!:frown: At this rate, I'll never have a clean shop!!!!!:burnout:

More to come.....

Cheers:beers:

----Dave,,,Id have to think really hard weather to put anything over top of that floorpan. It just looks so nice in the gray with the sealer. Don't cover it up!.....Bill S

Fear not! I have been working on the Stang-a-tang, the Stang-a-roo, the Rus-Stang!!!! With the Bee wrapped up, and having bought another car that needed some immediate attention, I got a little side tracked but now I'm back on track. What track, I'm not sure. Maybe it's the tracks of the Crazy Train for even thinking I should do another restoration!:confused2: But, I've quickly come to realize that if I don't do it, it's not getting done. So time get this thing on the twirler and scrape off some undercoating and start blasting off the old paint/rust/mud dauber homes.

What I've found was a few Highland Green overspray patterns, three different color primers used on the underside, and a few factory paint markings:burnout: What's left after all this? As you can see, a big ole' pile of used up undercoating that weighs about 5lbs. Anyone need any? I'll sell cheap...NOS Ford Undercoating: Just melt down and reapply!!!:eek2::eek2:

Cheers:beers:

Dave

So what next?? Blasting time. And being the cheapskate I am, I decided I'm going to do this myself since the blasters around here are, should we say, LESS than reliable. I masked off my paint booth with some drop plastic and put a few fans in there for dust evacuation. Oh, and don't worry, the Bee was nowhere around (stored in another shop that dust, tool and more importantly, PEOPLE (me) Free!!!!) So far, VERY happy with the results. This was just the first pass to get most of the heavy stuff off. I'll probably have to go over it a few times to get it totally cleaned up. I use two blasters, the one you see in the picture and a hand held Speedblaster gun. They both really work well. It's the compressor that's the probelm. I really need a two stage air compressor to keep up. HEY? I need another tool!!!! :naughty::naughty:

Cheers

Dave

What a great car and project! Thanks for sharing.

Great project. Thanks for sharing all the pictures.

following along with this build - classic! now about the engine,
I believe this imperfection will hone out just fine :)

Ha! Yeah....actually, that's all fixed! Sleeves did it! I'll be taking the block back to the machine shop shortly for a boil/bake cleaning, and then start thinking about building a stout stroker in stock clothes! Going to post up more at the end of the month. But I was able to save the original engine, so that's something I'm beyond excited about!

Cheers

Dave

Welp....it was a slow going, and fortunately, I didn't have to worry about blasting the floor pans. Here's an action shot in my full "2001 A Space Odyssey" get up!:shocked: Due to the Hunnit Percent Humditiy here in Houston, the metal was rusting right after I blasted it!:dunno:

Weight of Dave before blasting: 165lbs. Weight of Dave after blasting: 152lbs. That's a net loss of 13lbs. What'd I lose? Oh, that's common sense as to why I do things like this!!!!!:confused2::dunno: But the results are worth it!!!!! No more rust, no more grime, no more gunk!!!!

I decided to go with the Red Oxide primer look for a number of reasons. Mainly, all the early Mustangs I've seen that had the Red Oxide underneath always looks sharp with the freshly restored contrasting parts against it. Secondly, I checked with the MCA rules, and even though I won't have the car judged, acceptable undercarriage colors for all Mustangs as Red Oxide, Gray, and Black. So there you go! Decision made and now it's done. I'm diggin' it!!!!!!:headbang:

Cheers:beers:

Dave

Soooo....as you can see, only the bottom was primed. Now that it's all done and sealed, I'll be taking a pressure washer and blasting the interior, trunk, and engine bay to remove all the dust/trash that's left over after all of this. Also, I'll remove the doors, glass, and fenders. Once that's done I can blast the engine bay, trunk and parts of the interior. Once clean I'll epoxy prime those areas. More to come with hopefully the rest of the car primed up this week!!!!:burnout:

A nice improvement from what I started with!:headbang:

Cheers

Dave

Nice! Like you said, that red oxide will look great when assembled. I did the same thing on my 69 interior and I love the results.

Progress, progress! Luckily, everyone at the shop was out of town for the weekend so I was able to get the exterior of the car completely stripped and primed without anyone stopping in to ask for help or chat about things I don't want to chat about. :eek2:.

As you can see for ease of sanding, I left the car assembled. The next phase will be to remove the fenders and doors, then get out the pressure washer and let 3000psi of water pressure coming out of the Turbo 5100 rotary nozzle remove the remaining trash/dirt and grime in the interior and trunk area. Once that's all done I'll spray the interior redoxide and I'll be into the bodywork!

Stay tuned for more...block..block...sand...sand....:frown:

Cheers

Dave

:eek2: Paint next week! Well.....maybe that's a tish on the optimistic side:wink:

Cheers:beers: