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Re: 1973 RS/LT/Z28 4spd - Gold/Parchment Restoration
Looking good James!
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Re: 1973 RS/LT/Z28 4spd - Gold/Parchment Restoration
Not sure if anyone else has already asked, but... [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/Can-I-Have-It.gif[/img]
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Re: 1973 RS/LT/Z28 4spd - Gold/Parchment Restoration
Uh No!! [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/haha.gif[/img]
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Re: 1973 RS/LT/Z28 4spd - Gold/Parchment Restoration
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 73RSLTZ</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Uh No!! [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/haha.gif[/img] </div></div>
Well, at least I can thank you for the prompt reply! [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/grin.gif[/img] |
Re: 1973 RS/LT/Z28 4spd - Gold/Parchment Restoration
http://i359.photobucket.com/albums/o...e/100B5860.jpg]photobucket[/url]
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Re: 1973 RS/LT/Z28 4spd - Gold/Parchment Restoration
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Re: 1973 RS/LT/Z28 4spd - Gold/Parchment Restoration
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Re: 1973 RS/LT/Z28 4spd - Gold/Parchment Restoration
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Z...refelction.jpg
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-j..._door_deep.jpg https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-S...reflection.jpg https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Q...o/102B6800.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Y...o/102_6780.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-C...o/102B6831.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-j...o/102B6811.JPG |
Re: 1973 RS/LT/Z28 4spd - Gold/Parchment Restoration
Beautiful........Lots of Blocking went on there!!!!
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Re: 1973 RS/LT/Z28 4spd - Gold/Parchment Restoration
Wow!!!!
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Re: 1973 RS/LT/Z28 4spd - Gold/Parchment Restoration
I cant wait to start putting it together.
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Some details I have been posting regular updates on this over on the 2nd gen boards... NASTYZ28.com http://www.nastyz28.com/threads/1973...g-nums.255144/
I set up a zinc plating tank and started plating a bunch of stuff for the car. Just been collecting parts and making progress. |
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Replated the TCS relay and the Horn Relay, tons of nuts and bolts and restored, cleaned terminal ends, washed the plugs, replaced wires, rewrapped the wiring harnesses.
honed and rebuilt the original brake calipers. |
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Inside fresh air ducting, harness gutters, antenna lead, dash mat (firewall pad), brake line clip refinishing (pantone color match number), details details details are what makes them assembly line correct.
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Awesome car James! I wonder what the different color "G" markings on the rear end mean? Yours is orange and mine is blue, our cars are a month apart yours being older.
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Nice work James.
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Looks great....That is going to be stunning when completed.
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James, wanna come to New York and help me finish my 70Z? Beautiful work. I wouldn't expect anything less from you!
Buddy |
All the machine work is done on the engine, born with block and heads, intake is stock, looking for a 4 spd carb dated december or Nov oct. 30 over stock 9.0 : 1 compression, stock heads, 10 10 on the crank. going to assemble it soon.
Really deciding what to do about the interior more than anything. It is 788 LT Neutral comfort Weave - the reproduction is a stamped pattern VS an actual woven pattern... I KNOW THE DIFFERENCE, which is SIGNIFICANT. I found an original ITW lift reverse shifter and rods. The original LT door panels are going to be pretty good if not better than that, there is only one small split in the drivers upper which I can fix from the back, put them on new FLAT backings and they will be very good original Neutral LT door panels,(Just Dashes is said to do the door panels at 1500 a pair.) Gotta get this one done so I can do another... either the 68 HO 4spd GTO I have had for 15 years Alpine Blue over Parchment headrest buckets - Rally II's, redlines, hideaways, 3.55 M20 console rear antenna rear defog, Hd cooling (4 core rad and temp control 7 blade fan), HD aircleaner. all born with matching with original warranty card and recall letter for the fast idle cam on the carb. OR would like to find a real 72 RS Z28 4spd... ha ha ha... |
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If your engine parts are original and the machine shop hand cleans the connection rods, they should be pink rods.
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They are pink, however I would have assumed they were full floating rods but they are pressed pins... I have a couple of extra sets full floating 69 Z rods however we just used the originals.
Looking for a late 72 dated carb for a 4 spd. - 7043213 with somewhere around a 300-350 julian date for 1972 |
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Door Dates - Quarter Dates-
Original wire harnesses corrected removed plugs, cleaned terminals, threw the plastic in the dishwasher and then refitted all the plug's and connectors after replacing missing and wrong wires, colors, & sizes then re-wrapped or re-sheathed in plastic conduit. NICE Original dash plastic with Argent Trim - Replated the ash tray -after cleaning realized it was the dated original - 11-72 unbelievable. |
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Emissions evap duct?
Horn Relay - replated cover and stud Wiper motor - replated screws and washer brackets Original Evap canister... is 354 the julian date? Core Support detail of light overspray down the fenders - from being on a buck with small gap between fenders and hood. Firewall and front end Interior Ducting and seals The original EVAP lines - white lettering - and Yellow Lettering Yellow Stripe. |
Wow, great work.
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I am looking for any REAL Neutral Comfort weave material that anyone may know about....
I believe early 70's First two are the original door panels which had been MARHYDE painted black, I cleaned them with a tooth brush and Goof Off, it took over a half gallon to remove the Marhyde. The second two are an ORIGINAL low mile Neutral Comfort Weave interior - code 788 - I can only hope the interior turns out anywhere close to this nice.... |
Man, that is going to be killer. I love the old Gold colors and you rarely see them so I'm excited to see how this comes out. Keep posting up your progress, thanks.
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This project sure does inspire me to finish my '73... (working on it slowly, but finally making some progress).
On the evap canister date code question... You made me go look at mine. Yours: 354 with an 01A car body. Mine: 039 with an 02A car body. Appears to be a date code as you suggested... Keep up the great work ! Charlie |
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Been working on the dash and restoring the gauge cluster..
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Polishing the Aluminum Trim and stainless tail light rings
AFTER REMOVING THE ANODIZING |
Nice work for sure. If you can fix the stock lens its the way to go. I've heard, no experience, that the OER lens are bad. I used a headlight restore polish and it worked well as a followup to the sanding.
What are you going to do to protect the polished aluminum? Shoot with clear coat and polish? Did you rechrome the gauge bezel or silver it? |
How's your clock? I had to rebuild mine a replace the electrical contacts with some silver ones I got on eBay:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tattoo-mach...item4d74032e5b Glued them on with this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/MG-Chemical...item1a4f4d6e8f |
The AL TRIM:
Thinking about having the Aluminum clear anodized. Was thinking about anodizing them myself, however the sticks for the doors and over the front and rear glass are 3-1/2 - 4 feet so it would take a fairly large tank to anodize. CLEAR is pretty simple, the question is the amount of current and whether a rectifier would be required or would a battery charger supply enough current? The Lenses, I used dripping water along with palmolive and 1. Wet sand 1500 on the worst scratched lenses 2. Wet sand all with 2000 until the scratches were all the same... 3. Wet sand with soap 3000 trizak until consistent 4. hand polish with soft cotton cloth balled up using fine cut Meguires 5. hand polish with NEW cotton cloth using with swirl remover My printed circuit board was DELAMINATING so after removing it. 1. I got out a sheet of parchment paper (NOT WAXED PAPER) and 2. an old clothes iron, set it to the lowest and worked up until somewhere around 180 deg. 3. Put a hand towel on the granite counter and 4. laid the circuit board down over the towel 5. laid the parchment over the plastic circuit board and then IRONED it back together... It took a while as I worked slowly with as low a setting on heat as would make it stick back together rather than risk melting it. (the first time it was only 125-130 deg and it was not hot enough.) |
Nice innovation!!:biggthumpup:
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That's awesome. Pretty smart!!!
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I flattened the original dash pad using a 3 foot stick of 1" square tubing.
Clamping the dash pad sandwiched between the edge of the granite counter top and the stick of tubing. Heating the dash pad structure using (3) 300 watt halogen lamps. I used heavy aluminum foil over the dash pad edge which rolls over the front to keep it from heating up too much and used the lamps pointed inside the dash pad upside down on the counter. It doesn't take too long to heat it up if they are 5" from lens face to surface which is about 7-8" from the actual bulb. -- if you have it clamped taught and are heating it you will feel the clamps noticeably looser. Which you can then tighten a little at a time until it is flat across the front. FWIW this works with a 69 dash pad as well... HOWEVER the 69 front lip is not anywhere close to as sturdy or thick as the second gen front lip and many times is already chipped cracked or missing pieces. ANODIZING HEAVY DUTY oven cleaner removes anodizing so you can polish aluminum trim if anyone did not know... otherwise it streaks when polishing and appears to have a residue on parts. if needs to looks really dull like the part shown on the left above when you start polishing or sanding scratches out or it will not be easy to polish evenly. |
For me the straightening was the easy part. I used a hot air gun, a 4 foot level on the undersides and a series woodworking bar clamps to slowly flatten it. My problem was the shrinkage of the original cover. This can be seen in your second photo down in post 71. The leading edge where it curls around is uneven. I heated and stretched and heated and stretched and finally got mine to wrap around somewhat to satisfaction. Not perfect, but close. Did you get yours better than the photo in 71?
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I use silver leaf put the glue down then burnish silver leaf onto the surface. I couldn't get the wood grain off without fear of damaging it or I may have sent it out to have it metalized. As an aside the original 69 tire pressure decals are not on foil or on paper they are on vacuum metalized paper - which appears to be wet strength metalized paper. It was originally developed for beer bottle labels thus it has wet strength in the paper. |
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