Now we are on a great topic!!!

I suggest cut a significant hole in the floor and the trans tunnel so you can use any shifter you want.

I have an extra set of NOS straight rods..... (I don’t want to sell them but do enjoy helping with a shifter upgrade...)

I have a feeling the Street Super Shifter may be the right choose. (Were the shifters with the red handle sold after the push down for reverse style? If so I would go for the push down for reverse style. (I have one but NFS)

RamRod....

P&G...

Lots of fun to be had!!

Ryan W31

Bernhard wrote:
Nice!

Ryan, I thought the original super shifters were pushed down for reverse but it turns out they were not equipped like that. After a couple more revisions it appears that Hurst came out with the red detent lever and the name later became Super Shifter 3. I was told the new versions being made today also had a push down reverse lockout but it appears that isn't accurate either. I think those are now called the Street Super Shifters? Does that sound right? Personally, I like the Super Shifter 3 series for that bright red handle that pulls up for reverse.

I'm also a big fan of the RamRod but do not think they are well suited on the street. That and the novelty of that trigger would soon become a pain in the arse to me. I had one that I mocked up a couple of years ago and while I still think they are cool...I could only see that lasting a week with me on the street. Maybe less as I like rowing through an H pattern.

Bernhard wrote:
Are you using aftermarket shifter rods?

I own a set but have yet to try them.

Ryan W31

Hoping to add some install pictures to this thread next week sometime. That'll include shots of the tunnel mods.

fyi the street super shifter currently available from Hurst new does not have any type of reverse lock out at all. it does have the straight rods but not the heavy duty reinforced ones.

That's good to know. I thought the current version still had some sort of lockout. I was mistaken on that so I now see. Thanks

The original Hurst Super Shifter 1 which was released circa 1971/72 was nothing more than a Hurst Competion Plus Body that was mounted high up off the transmission tailhousing and used a short 7” straight bolt on handle. This Super shifter 1 used a flat plate bracket and 3 solid spacers & grade 8 bolts. It used straight rods with a length of tubing over them, and conventional Hurst tags/swivels/bushings & clips. The tubing was crimped in the middle for retention. This 1st design Super Shifter did not use a push down for reverse and it said Hurst Competion Plus on it.

The Super Shifter 2 released approx 1974/75 ? was redesigned to fix issues with the bracket coming loose on tailhousing after repeated slamming of gears, and it used a redesigned mounting bracket that consisted of a piece of channel welded to the flat plate that eliminated the spacers. The shifter body said Super Shifter on it and was redesigned with push down reverse lockout function and had a small coil type spring located at the front on the bottom of the shifter body, this Super Shifter 2 also used 1-2/3-4 shift rods with crimped tubing. It had a tendency to pull the reverse lever slightly when slamming 3rd gear and you had to absolutely make sure the stops were set perfect or it tried to move the reverse rod ( causing grinding ) probably due to the spring causing load or friction between the internal body 3/4 & reverse levers.

The Super Shifter 3 used redesigned rods that were threaded where the clips go and used thin nylon type crimp nuts & wave spring washers and the body was redesigned and it no longer used the push down reverse function, it used the red handle positive reverse lockout , no idea the release date on it. It used a similar bracket as the Super Shifter 2, but stronger design.

Graeme you will have to cut a small horizontal notch in tunnel approx 4-6” long for the 3/4 rod as it leaves shifter body towards tag, you will also have to notch the tunnel somewhat for the shifter body and bracket . You can tweak/bend/pry the side of the tunnel somewhat to clearance for the 3-4 rod as it approaches the side cover tag. We just used to let the carpet cover this small slot. Keep the piece you cut out of tunnel, it can be welded back in if you ever decide to go back to original.

Hope this helps. Best of luck.

It may be because my car is a big block car and has the offset cross member, but I didn't have to cut a slot in mine for the shifter rod to clear. I used a dead blow hammer to move the tunnel a little so the rod would clear. The small block cross member may not allow enough room for this.