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Elevating vehicle rear can sometimes help w/ rear bleeding accentuating air movement to system high point/bleeder.
Have rear wheel cyls been physically checked/drums on/brakes adjusted up?:hmmm:
Keep rockin', you'll get there!
:beers:
~ Pete

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i will try that tomorrow. thanks Ron and Pete.

I would try and crack the brake line going into the wheel cylinder and see if you have anything goimg in. Maybe wheel cylinders are all pluugged up

I know this would be a pain in the south end -- but I'd go one step further. Start at the master cylinder ... crack the line and keep moving to the rear. Messy? yes ... but that may be the only way to nail down where the problem is. Case in point ... had a friend of mine with a 69' Camaro -- pulled the rear end to install a 12 bolt and left the brake line open. To make a long story short -- mud dobbers had built a "nest" in the open line ... didn't notice it and line was plugged ... Craig

Opened both front bleeders pushed on brake pedal brake light is out. Pin on reg valve is stuck in. Front brakes vacuum bleed good. Back ones do not bleed well. Cracked lines in rear to wheel cyl some fluid comes out. Debating to take wheel cyl off and get rebuilt. Pedal moves down to floor. Maybe spoil valve inside comb valve is not allowing fluid to go to rear brakes. Taking a break been at this all day. Thanks

Well I checked today to see if I had fluid coming out of the line that comes out of the comb valve to the rear wheel cyl. Nothing. Pulled the master with everything attached. Rust on the booster where the master sits against. Back of master cyl is wet. Think I'm sending it all out to be rebuilt not restored. I called white post today. Also dealt with Karps in Calif years ago. Any suggestions. Going to clean all brake lines and rebuild wheel cyl. Thanks

Definitely a good move for the rebuild. 50 year old brake parts surely need attention. Make sure you tear down the wheel cylinders. If they are pitted real bad inside your going to be sending them to get sleeved also.

I suggest to turn the key on check if the brake warning light is on. You may have tripped the proportion valve shutting fluid off to the rear. If so it could be a bit of a pain to get reset. You may have to open a front bleeder push the pedal to the till you see the dash light go out or here a click noise centering the valve. Then try bleeding again without heavy foot pressure. Or try your vacuum bleeder.

Removed the master cylinder and all the valves attached, removed brake booster, removed wheel cylinders, removed brake calibers and brake hoses. Being 50 year old parts and keeping them unrestored and original I'm getting everything checked out. Thanks for all your help guys. Hopefully back together for GM carlisle. Stay safe and Have a Blessed Easter Everyone. Remember JESUS is the Reason for the Season.

Same to you and yours -- have a safe and very Happy EASTER ... Craig:flag::flag::flag: