Well, it did not survive the winter, even though it had a battery tender on it all winter. I am using a temporary battery for now, just a top post with side post adapters.

I bought this in the 90's. It came dry and was in a Delco box. I bought fresh acid for it in 2012, charged it up, and it worked fine until last October. Can anyone tell me if it is an NOS battery? I don't know if they were even making repops back then. I know the repop they make now is a gel cell battery that does not take acid.

I am still considering cutting this open from the bottom and installing a Braille battery inside. I have a Braille mounted remotely in my 69 Opel GT. It rarely gets driven, but the battery holds a charge really well. Whenever I put a tender on it, it shows fully charged in an hour or so. My other batteries seem to take a day or more.

I have an R59 Display battery, I was going to put a modern battery inside, but never did-probably never will. It sure would look cool, though.

Can anyone tell me from the pics above it this is an original battery vs. a repop from the 90's? Did they even make a repop in the 90's?

I think I am going to drain it and cut the guts out. and try to adapt a Braille battery. I already have a Braille (it is what I use in the Opel GT, relocated with the spare tire). If is useless to me the way it is. I thought I had seen a video or two outlining the procedure, but can't find any thing.

I am guessing the best place to cut is the bottom, as it won't show when installed.

Any help or guidance of any kind would be appreciated.

Got the acid out and nuetralized with baking soda.

http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=17474.0

Here is a similar operation Chick shows us on CRG.

Perfect. Thanks a million.

I've pulled back batteries that would not even accept a charge with this: https://www.pulsetech.net/our-techno...echnology.html
It's real and it works.
It won't pull back every battery because some times the plates get too thin and structurally fail.

Went ahead and gutted it. Followed the procedure posted by Chick on the CRG site referenced in post #15 above. Only thing I didn't do was protect the top as well as he did so I ended up with a few scratches. But then probably pretty normal for a batter that is probably 40 years old.

I drilled through the 3/8 threade holes for the side posts and just threaded them all the way through. I used 00 cables (probably overkill, but I will never have to worry about them not carrying the amperage. Used very short 3/8 standard thread bolts to attach the cables on the inside. Made sure they would not interfere with the outside bolts from the side post cables.

Used a Braille racing lightweight AGM and just mounted it upside down. It is way more powerful than the original battery. I have the exact same battery in my 69 Opel GT, and it doesn't lose a charge even when sitting for a month at a time without a tender. I had read that they do not stay charged well when not driven regularly, but that has not been my experience.

After shooting these pics, and before attaching a bottom plate made from polycarbonate, I stuffed some more hard closed cell flexible foam in all the nooks and crannies, just so it wouldn't rattle around.

I glued some paint sticks together to make sure the battery stayed in place, then attached the bottom plat with epoxy.

Pretty pleased with the results. And it sure is easier to put in and out because it is much lighter.

why don't you just buy a good aftermarket battery and put one of those delco toppers on it?
https://www.batterytoppers.com/products/

https://www.autozone.com/batteries-s...5_631116_25697

I’m with you on a topper, you can add the eye so it isn’t red. It still isn’t a factory battery all gutted and all.