Ryan Weaver's 1969 Olds Cutlass S W31 Club Coupe
 

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If not using it, best may be keep it as the spacer but B'fly fixed open or removed and stem holes filled solid.
Is it flat both sides or tapered either?
[img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/beers.gif[/img]
~ Pete

Re: Ryan Weaver's 1969 Olds Cutlass S W31 Club Coupe
 

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: PeteLeathersac</div><div class="ubbcode-body">-

If not using it, best may be keep it as the spacer but B'fly fixed open or removed and stem holes filled solid.
Is it flat both sides or tapered either?
[img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/beers.gif[/img]
~ Pete



</div></div>

Yep -- that will work Pete ... been there done that ... TAZ

Re: Ryan Weaver's 1969 Olds Cutlass S W31 Club Coupe
 

Thanks guys!!

I don't have one right now, and my head pipes were cut back to add header flanges, so I need to have them made over again or extended, plus I need an 18mm bung welded in one close to the exhaust manifold for tuning (lean/rich)

If all works well/fits well I will have the new pipe made longer to go without the riser altogether.

I assume blocking the exhaust crossover in the manifold under the carb is a good plan as well? I have a valley pan planned in the engine build (Makes sense to keep hot oil off the bottom of the manifold) do they come with and without cross over ports cut in them? (Also seems to make sense to keep hot exhaust off the bottom of the manifold as well)

Summer driving only, but some mornings can be pretty cool/cold.

Ryan

https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/pics...8-img_0015.jpg

Re: Ryan Weaver's 1969 Olds Cutlass S W31 Club Coupe
 

I've run closed crossovers in the past -- again, the only worries would be colder/wet temps ... but if she is going to be a sunny day machine, block them off. You should be able to fashion thin stainless steel to cover the ports and not be visable on the outside.

Pete -- your thoughts? TAZ

Ryan Weaver's 1969 Olds Cutlass S W31 Club Coupe
 

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Been a while for me but don't some Olds intake gaskets include block offs for these ports?
Either that or already blocked as Ryan noted but maybe perforated to remove when using 'em?

Great chassis shot Ryan also LOVE the X-pipe!
Are you sending update pics to Al too or does he check in on this thread here?

[img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/beers.gif[/img]
~ Pete

Re: Ryan Weaver's 1969 Olds Cutlass S W31 Club Coupe
 

I've seen the &quot;restrictor&quot; plates with bendable tabs ... can't remember seeing any that completely block the port. But they're easy enough to make. TAZ

Re: Ryan Weaver's 1969 Olds Cutlass S W31 Club Coupe
 

Before you ditch the heat riser....I am sure you are checking the rules if you are indeed planning on competing at PSMCDR`s....also is your X-pipe allowed in the event rules?

Dan

Re: Ryan Weaver's 1969 Olds Cutlass S W31 Club Coupe
 

All good, no &quot;Stroker-Boy&quot; here:-)

Exhaust

Cast-iron exhaust manifolds are mandatory and must be correct for the year, model, and horsepower claimed. Internal modifications to the exhaust manifolds are NOT allowed. Under no circumstances will headers be allowed, including those cars that came with headers delivered in the trunk. The exhaust system may be upgraded to a maximum of 2.5-inch head and tail pipes. Pipes must be routed as they were originally for the year, make, model, and engine combination. Mufflers must be stock looking in design, that is, oval in shape. No glasspacks or straight pipes allowed unless installed as original equipment. Maximum muffler inlet and outlet size is 2.5 inches. X &amp; H pipes allowed.

Re: Ryan Weaver's 1969 Olds Cutlass S W31 Club Coupe
 

Well done :-)

Dan

Re: Ryan Weaver's 1969 Olds Cutlass S W31 Club Coupe
 

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: earntaz</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 83hurstguy</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'd ditch the heat riser, just make sure the choke works on the carb, you'll be fine. I started and ran my '83 without issue a ton of times with headers (so no heat riser) and a working choke in single digit temps. You get heat from the exhaust crossover under the carb anyways. The stock manifolds are already restrictive enough...</div></div>

Good enough -- just takes a skoshi longer for the manifold to heat up. Another issue is when using stock exhaust head pipes, because the heat riser (about 2&quot; thick) was removed, now the pipe may be too close to the floor pan ... assembly will show what the clearance is ... TAZ </div></div>

Good catch... I forgot the SBO uses the heat riser separate from the manifold.

Ryan, if you decide to block off the heat crossover under the intake, you can use these thin stainless plates in conjunction with a composite intake gasket in place of the turkey tray. Note that I would typically never ever ever endorse these guys for parts, but I believe they are the only ones on the market with it, unless you just use some thin/flat stainless. Do NOT use the cast iron plugs that hammer into the heads, they never stay in place and rattle around. The best option is really to pour them full, but that's a whole other discussion...

www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&amp;_t...er&amp;_sacat=0

The challenge with blocking off the heat crossover is that the choke will not like to work correctly (or at least will take a long time to fully open once the manifold heat soaks, which isn't good because it tends to cause the engine to run rich for extended durations). With the proper divorced choke carb for '68-69, there's not really an electric choke replacement available either.