The way I understand it the high HP cars got the larger yoke for the 1330 U joint and used U bolts instead of straps.

Bare, naked BE!

Please don't take anything out of that rear end without measuring backlash and doing a pattern check on it first. Once you remove parts it's too late to do this and you will have no idea how to set it up again. Also, please do not put punch marks on the left bearing cap and only put one mark on the right cap. Those punch marks can make the cap weak and the left cap carries more of a load than the right one. If the factory paint marks are still on the caps then there is no need to put punch marks on either cap, and even if the caps get mixed up you can still figure out where they go by measuring the bore size.

It looks like that housing is in great shape. Those tubes look like they are free of rust pits and the spring perches look like they haven't been bent or torn from abuse.

Does this rear end have the 1330 yoke with U bolts?

Spring perches are not original to the rear, Frank A. had his guy weld them on as part of the deal when I bought it. Housing and tubes are in fantastic shape with almost 0 pitting. It does not have the correct yoke...William over on CRG says that it should be the larger yoke (3954393) with straps/bolts instead of u-bolts.

Stopped to visit the car. Bodywork and initial panel alignment is coming along well. Currently waiting on my hood hinges to get back from resto so the hood can be aligned/fit. Original cowl hood was near perfect - zero rust. They will be protecting/retaining all the factory original interior overspray including the little paper tag on the inside of the door frames and rear panel inners. They will have to blend a little LB on the jamb side of the door inners where the PO sprayed some black.

any possibility of getting a pic of the rear axle tube stamping pls?

Looks great!

Eddie, here's a pic of of the stamp on my axle.

I have the same date in my Copo