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napa68 11-17-2025 05:03 PM

Nothing more than a small PSA. Perhaps a bunch of you guys already do this. I blew out the frame rails in the 66 today. This is a byproduct of about an hour. Remarkable what sits inside the frame rails.

https://i.imgur.com/urn4yKvh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ItFdTVih.jpg

Too Many Projects 11-17-2025 06:37 PM

That is very minimal for a 57 yr old car. Looks like mice have been in there at some point.
Is there such a tool as a refillable pressure container with a hose and conical nozzle to spray BoeShield in there ?
I cut the right rocker off the '70 Chevelle and got a 2 lb coffee can full of rust, dirt and mouse nest "stuff" ...:eek2:

60sStuff 11-17-2025 06:44 PM

Really ….. you just blew out 59 years of Original particles from various roadways this Corvette traveled :dunno:

Have a nice chilly day Tim.

BTW, great thorough BaT auction on the Red Roadster!

PeteLeathersac 11-18-2025 03:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Too Many Projects (Post 1683626)
Is there such a tool as a refillable pressure container with a hose and conical nozzle to spray BoeShield in there ?

In the 80’s I worked for the Canadian Co. Rust-Check which is the Automotive Rust-proofing derivative of Boeshield. What we used to apply the product then was approximate 4-8’ pieces of transmission lines w/ airline fittings and product feed on lead end and other ends squeezed/brazed closed but w/ a few hacksaw slits near the tips allowing product to blast out about 180 degrees while under compressed air pressure, lead ends were marked so you knew which direction the spray was pointing to avoid direct soaking insides of door panels etc. Drilling holes big enough for the tubes to fit through, you’d push the tubes in and out of doors/fenders/quarter panels/truck box sides etc while squeezing the trigger and the product would fan out of the slits which resulted in spectacular coverage of areas you’d never gain access to otherwise. Under pressure, product would often blow out the complete opposite side of the vehicle also removing a door panel or inserting a borescope to view coverage success, it was amazing how well the process worked. Also important was drilling A-Pillars near the base of the windshields but above the welds that a lot of cars had then as many A-Pillars were full of water, which you’d of course allow to drain before hitting w/ the product. One more thing, the plastic plugs you’d insert into the drilled holes after process completion were soaked in product so bare hole edges had product on them too.
Boeshield and Rust Check are formulas w/ synthetic oil as their carrier which displaces moisture and reacts w/ metals, rust which is also a chemical reaction, cannot happen at the same time. Boeing was experiencing reactions between the aluminum skins and rivets which would loosen rivets similar to when something freezes/expands, Boeshield reacting stops the metal reactions…same idea w/ automobiles and steel materials using Rust Check.
Lastly, there’s other copy-cat products out there, some very well marketed too but they don't have the same recipe and chemical reactions, just oil doing their rustproofing. Tar products do little good also often block drains, they also electronic devices are more to pretend they’re doing something while what they’re really selling you is a warranty.
Sorry this got so long:scholar:, I started typing to mention the tranny lines for product application.
:beers:
~ Pete

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