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My plastic inner fender (only one that survived) was cracked and not reusable. As many of you know, original (not NOS as they are slightly different) plastic inner fenders are unobtainable for the most part and even if you do find a set they will crack instantly. Also, the repops are not even close Soooooo, for that reason I chose to use a set of metal inner fenders. It will haunt me till the day I die but not much I can do about it unless I find a set of original assembly line plastic inners.
We then lightly glue the flaps to the inner fenders. This will hold them in place while you drill the staple holes. Which side of the fender depends on plant and timing or if the guy that normally applied them that day called in sick so in my opinion there is really not a right or wrong way to do them and I usually do them based on what other cars in the time span were done. However, since 69's for the most part used plastic inner fenders it is really a moot point. After the glue sets up we decide where to put the staples. Usually around 6-8 and we use a staple as a template marking the flap as to where to drill the holes. Once the holes are all drilled we use a special hardened pointed pliers I found at Hobby Lobby to bend the staples over. It really helps if you put a block of wood on the backside and clamp the staple head so it cannot move while you roll the staples. Using this method gives you a rolled staple instead of a flattened over look which would not be correct. There you have it. The blue plastic is there to protect the inner fender during this process. |
Hi Rick
You are killing this resto, dead nuts accurate. I have to say I am pretty proud of Nick Morocco and I as we did my inner fenders in a similar fashion. Usually my methods were a little goofy but we got that one right. I think we can find a beautiful grandma Malibu with perfect inner fenders, steal the IF’s and throw the car away. I know how much you spent on shocks so this would not be out of line. I will buy the grandma Malibu with those steel IF’s for scrap weight. I bet you a Tim Hortons coffee the good 1969 Chevelle guys on here will come up with a plastic set by sun up!!! PS: Did your original inner fender have made in a Canada on it? Ryan W31 |
If I can come up with a mint set, I will buy them depending on where they are at as shipping is another huge issue. Not price wise but damage wise.
I do not believe my inner fender (only one) had Made In Canada on them. |
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Last night was carpet installation night. We started by laying in the sound deadener which is nowhere near correct but the best that is available. I have never come across anything better than this and cannot bring myself to use Dynamat in a restoration. Perfect for a resto mod but just not correct here.
Carpeting is cut in differently depending on what type of seats, console or non console and type of transmission. Each is unique to the other. Over the years I have photo documented and/or saved carpeting out of survivors to insure that we cut the carpet exactly how it was installed. This requires having some of the carpet seamed in some cases as well as edging sewn on the carpet between the seats. The seats were NEVER bolted to the top of the carpet and instead flaps were cut to hide the track and feet which mounted directly to the floor. I laid pieces of paper under the flap so you can see how they were cut for the seat track corners. Tomorrow I remove the carpet and bring it in to carpet store and have the edging applied to the portion that goes over the transmission tunnel between the seats. Since this is a non console car that area is exposed and can be seen and therefore will be edged just like the factory. I will also apply the original Magee carpet manufacturers tag back to the bottom of the carpet on both sides. Once completed we will install it back into the car and cut the hole for the shifter boot and plate and finish off that part of the interior. Then it is onto the glass and door hardware. |
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Unlike the 70 Chevelles, the 69's (as well as I believe all previous years) use lots of rivets to hold the grille and brackets onto the nose of the car. Our 69 used a total of 9 rivets. Fortunately the rivets can be found at most hardware stores. Ours came from Ace hardware. Unfortunately they require a special tool to roll the edges of the rivet. In some cases like the upper brackets you cannot even get a tool in that area. I believe GM likely used a hand held crimping type rivet tool as opposed to one that required impacting it. We customized a tool to use on the upper rivets and I will show that later. For the bottom and center rivets we used a conventional peening tool. The one pictured is mounting the center of the bumper filler to the vertical hood latch support. Notice the small photo of the rivet tool in the last photo.
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Speaking of the nose, I also had Joe apply the 427 in grease pencil prior to the paint application. Our front end was missing but thanks to (I believe Phil Woj) and others, it seems that most COPO's had the 427 written on the top of the bumper divider so we replicated that on ours.
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Rick that is interesting. my red 69 SS with a L35 and three speed had SS in the same spot on the filler panel. pic shows what mine looked like during disassembly.
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We have been working hard the last couple of nights but doesn't seem like we accomplished much. Down to the nickel and dime stuff. Carpet is off being finish edged and still working on locating last minute parts though many members have been very helpful with some of them.
We reinstalled the NOS Yenko emblems and 427 emblems using original style barrel nuts. That was nerve racking but it all worked out well. I used reproduction 427 emblems as 2 of my 3 were broken from the accident. Couple things in the trunk. Our original trunk lock retainer screw as well as the ground for the rear harness used a flat head Phillips screw. I hate them and rarely see them used but that is what came on the car so that is what is going back on. (original and after restoration photos) The wiring harness retainer clips were red oxide primered so they were restored and replaced. (original and after restoration photos) |
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We restored an original radiator cap but it will not hold pressure so it will have to be show only usage.
Some shots of the almost finished engine compartment and carb. As I have said many times throughout this thread, if anyone sees something that does not look right please bring it to my attention. I will either learn from mistakes or explain why what was done was done for that reason. If anyone knows what ink stampings were used on the 4346 carb or has photos that would be greatly appreciated. I have all the LS6 information but no clue on these carbs. We have yet to put the fuel line on. After trying 3 different vendors we were going to make out own and Mike Angelo and Grady Burch told me to try Fine Lines. It came in yesterday and is as close as I have tried and will require only minor bending to match the original. Thanks Mike! |
This thread is the greatest restoration info in the history of A bodies. Rick, you have skill son..
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Thanks to the sharp eye of Don Lightfoot, he sent me a page from the AIM manual with regards to extra plug wire holders that were used in 1969. I sometimes take what the AIM manual shows with a grain of salt as there are so many changes and/or plant variations that you can not treat it like gospel. However, this caused me to do some quick research and low and behold I found these on some photos Phil had sent me of one of his survivors. I went thru my bins and thankfully I had a set so they were cleaned and installed.
This is what I have said before, if you see something that is wrong here or missing please do not hesitate to bring it to my attention. I know so little about the 69's and am always looking for input and unlike some people I like constructive criticism especially when backed up by proof. Thanks Don and others for their input. |
Again, thanx for addressing your steps. I would have made the mistake of assuming the left and right 4 wire retainers would not have been the same part number. I'd expect to see the 5/7 wires spread like so often the case on chevys. Good stuff!
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"I know so little about the 69's"....
That might have been the case before you started this restoration...but, I think you have moved the 'knowledge needle' quite a bit :worship: Picked up the MCR issue this weekend with the restoration article...great read. I have only one question...when do you guys sleep ?? Great job. -wilma |
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You won't like taking it easy, it gets boring.....:dunno:
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Got the booster dialed in with the assembly line grommet, check valve, hose and clamps. The placard is a reproduction and nearly identical.
Fuel line was a whole other story. After going thru several manufactures and about ready to make our own, Mikey suggested I try Fine Lines and they fit 95% better. We only had to do some minor tweaking. An original fuel Y-block coming from Chris White and I am in business. Thanks to Grady Burch, Mark Prunesti and Phil Woj for supplying several photos to work from. |
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Last night was front door hardware install. Fairly straightforward as all the hardware had been restored already and ready to install other than the window guides which I restored with new nylon faces on them.
Thanks to Rainer Seitz for sending me 2 nearly perfect visor pivots. Certainly two of the best I have seen in MANY years. Another one off the list. |
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The last little bit of fun I tackled were the two grille brackets that are riveted under the header panel. GM must have used a special tool to hand crimp these as there is no way to get a normal tool and hammer in there so we did the next best thing, customized a peening tool so that it would fit inside of a C-clamp and using hand pressure we were able to roll the head of the rivet just like what the impacting does only this just uses muscle instead. Worked out perfect and no damage to any part of the nose. Thanks to Albert Galdi and Ed Fischer for helping supply me with the brackets.
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Ryan W31 |
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Ryan W31 |
Get one of these. Much easier and precise
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Press-and-Snap made by Hoover.
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Rick, are the fuel line nuts in the bowls supposed to be gold cad plated ? Maybe clear cad too? The photos you have show black ones.
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Scott, thanks for looking for the small details as those are things I want to make sure I have correct. However, with regards to these fittings, I have original photos that Chris White had provided me of a literal Day 2 take off carb mounted on an intake and those fittings are plated in black zinc chromate (assuming I am using the correct term). They are a little more washed out in the photos I have but never the less you can see what they were originally. I also have several fittings I removed from cars back in the 70's as well as original carbs in my inventory and all have the black zinc chromate finish. I think the confusion comes from many carb restorers who have restored these over the last 30 years who restored them and replated everything on the carb in yellow (gold) dichromate.
However...….thanks to you bringing it to my attention I see that my float adjustment nut and lock screws are plated opposite of what I see in those same photographs and looking at my original carbs I have that I believe have never been restored I am seeing those plated both ways. Anyone have an answer for those? |
The valve covers and intake were masked with one continuous plastic mask for engine painting. So I don't believe there should be any overspray in the middle edges of the intake, only on the ends. Sorry, hard to fix. :(
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Kurt, thanks for your input. I have literally studies this for hundreds of hours over the last 30 plus years and disagree. I have heard the same thing though oddly enough I have never seen a photo of the mask. I have been told they were separate masks, 1 for the intake and two others for the valve covers because some corvette big blocks used aluminum intakes but painted valve covers so they could not use one continuous mask. I have also studied many NCRS manuals and forums on the subject. Arguably this has been an ongoing debate since restorations started.
In addition, in my now 100,000 plus photo database I have many photos of not only original photos from back when the cars were near new but also from survivor engines. Lastly, I found the original intake for the car in the garage when we pulled the car out. From there you can clearly see the factory overspray. I may have "dusted" mine with a little more paint (indirect spray so it will wear off rather easily) than what the original photos show but the original overspray could have deteriorated after 19,000 miles to that point as well and I assume some of mine will also deteriorate once the engine is run for some time. Bottom line is, it is hard to argue with the photos of my original intake which is why I did what I did. |
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A couple more updates from last night. Annie picked up the carpet last night so we came back to the shop and finished installing it. They were able to seam the center piece that runs over the tunnel using the same material the factory did.
I added the manufactures placard back to the carpet. Unfortunately and like a dumba$$ I forgot to photograph which tag went on which piece of carpet so knowing my luck I installed the rear tag on the front carpet. |
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Thanks to Bruce H for selling me all the NOS front trim for the car and Phil W for supplying me with a template to drill the mounting holes for the small center trim between the headlight buckets.
Even brand new parts can fit like crap so many modifications were made to fit the headlight buckets to the nose completely flat as out of the wrapper they would not lay perfect. After much time and grinding they fit like a glove. Next will be the addition of the grille. |
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Restored original to the car battery junction block.
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On my 1100 mile 70 Z28 it was apparent the factory had a detail guy brush paint red and silver around that area by hand where needed. The remains on your intake look more like brushed on paint than overspray. Just a thought.
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For along time I also believed what you posted about the one piece mask. But not so sure now after viewing Grady Burch's 69 COPO Chevelle. His engine compartment is un touched and it also shows some very small amounts of Orange on the valve covers as well as the aluminum intake, it's very shuttle much like the photos Rick posted. It could be Tonawanda used more than on style mask ? JMO Mike |
I figured you had good reasons to do it that way.
It also could be a difference between Tonawanda and Flint. |
Charley, you are correct on your engine and I used the same techniques when restoring Marks Z28. However, that is a small block from Flint so I cannot say they used the same process. I have honestly never seen brush marks on a Tonawanda engine that I can remember. When I get time I will go through all my photos to see if I can post other examples.
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I've not been following this thread all along, so I am getting caught up. The level of craftsmanship going into this build is simply amazing. I am in awe of the skill level and attention to detail.
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Thanks to Chris White for the belated birthday gift. MUCH appreciated.
Thanks to Dwight for your continued V.V. Cooke support. This key chain is a reproduction but Dwight has come up with some amazing original V.V. Cooke memorabilia and NOS Yenko crests for the car so your efforts and kindness are greatly appreciated. |
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I thought I posted these already but did not find the mounted photo. Dwight supplied me with the plate surround (NOS real one) and knew of a gentleman who took the USA-1 plate off his car the day he bought his 69 El Camino SS and then put it in his sock drawer. 50 years later he took it out of that very same drawer and sent it to me to put on the car. Notice the unique Chevrolet decal. I have not talked to anyone who has seen this before.
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Paint Masks
Hi Rick, my intake on my LS6 is unrestored and also has a little orange paint on the edges, as the valve covers too, matches yours to the T. Your Yenko is a work of art. You and Annie are the best caretakers a Chevelle could have. :worship:
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Grill mounting hardware
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Rick, while studying your pictures today I noticed the white square grill mounting nuts. Are these what came on your car originally? My 69 Baltimore convertible had round grill mounting nuts( I have parted numerous 69 Baltimore cars and have found round ones on all of them as well. the originals I have are very brittle and I have been trying to find "correct" round ones. See the pictures attached. As you can see these are all a yellowish color, do you know if they where white and just turned yellow with age? thanks so much for posting all of these amazing pictures and assisting me with my restoration,
Rob |
headlight retaining buckets
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Rick it also appears your Headlight retaining buckets are a natural metal color - I was only able to see a small portion on your grill mounting bracket pictures. my originals are black(see pictures attached) I have not touched these and they are in the exact state that I took them off the car. I was just about to begin restoring them.
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There was no front clip with the car other than the fenders so I cannot say for sure on the grille mounting nuts. What is currently in place are aftermarket ones.
Regarding the headlight buckets I did find the originals in the garage and they were galvanized steel. I have found this on other Chevrolets and believe it to possibly be a supplier thing. A good friend of mine who also has a Baltimore car has the black buckets in his. As I have said many times in the past, I restore our cars how we find them if we are reasonably sure the parts are original. In the case of our headlight buckets I have no reason to believe they were not original to the car as they all had slight damage from the accident. The other difference is the galvanized buckets take a closed stainless trim ring spring hook hole and the tension spring attaches to it (also found in the garage) whereas the painted buckets have an open spring hole and the tension spring attaches to the bucket. I can post pictures of each tomorrow. |
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I thought I had taken several photos of my buckets as found and during cleanup but could not find them this morning. At any rate, the uninstalled buckets and light show how they looked in their natural state prior to installation. The second two photos show the difference between the trim ring on the galvanized bucket vs the trim ring on the painted bucket with regards to how the headlight adjuster spring attaches. The galvanized bucket has an open slot where the spring would normally attach so without the trim ring there is nothing for the spring to hold onto.
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