Re: 72 T/A progess
 

Let me get this straight Mac, are you saying that there MAY have been discrepancies on processes coming out of the GM factories. https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...ns/shocked.gif HOLY COW!

Seriously, good stuff. Love to hear of the differing processes among and within plants.

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

I am just so disheartened to learn that the only plant that was making Camaros and Firebirds (Norwood) in 1972 did not follow the proper shaker assembly procedures as dictated by GM. Just astonishing. https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/no.gif
No wonder they went on strike and shut the whole plant down for the rest of the model year. They were just too ashamed at how they built my car.

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

[ QUOTE ]
Okay, so I was posting to the companion novel I have of my progress on the T/A, at the Performance Years website and this guy jokingly asks me how I am going to "restore" that grungy old 8-track tape of the "Pontiac Stereo 8-track Sounds for 1972".

Having laid down the gauntlet I decided to go ahead and do just that, just to bust his balz.

Here is the before tape:

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...268a/tape1.jpg

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...268a/tape2.jpg

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...268a/tape3.jpg


I took the tape and scanned all three surfaces of the label into my computer, and converted it into a jpeg. I then spent about 12 hours on the Microsoft Paint program at 800% magnification, erasing all the yellow from the background and from between every single letter, pixel by pixel. It was like Pac-Man on a massive scale. (I should have let my kids do it, it would have went much faster). Carpal Tunnel Syndrome is a wonderful thing. Once that was done, I cut and pasted the three images together into one image file. The next fun was the 2 hours of adjusting the size so it printed out in the exact same size as the original decal. I had to keep adding to the length of the image to get it to center properly on paper with the right width and length.

Here is the final version. I printed it out on adhesive backed label paper that I had at the house. A glossier paper would be better but this gives you an idea of how it looks. Now all I need is a nice clean blank 8-track to put it on. Anybody have one?

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...P71600031a.jpg

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/P7160001.jpg

[/ QUOTE ]

Steve, you are unbelievable! Your T/A is going to be awesome when done. https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...ns/worship.gif

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

I just got my AM/FM Stereo radio and 8 track player back from Wards Classic Car Radio Repair www.wardsclassiccarradiorepair.com They did a very nice job on the whole set up. It cost $175 total, including return shipping. It took about 2 weeks, which included an entire weekend that he let the 8 track player run just to make sure it checked out after they finished cleaning and refurbishing everything. I asked him what he was using to play for 48 hours straight. He said they have quite a collection of old 8 track tapes just laying around for that purpose. Knowing how bad these things sounded back then compared to today's sound systems, I cant imagine how they deal with it, but hey, they are the experts! I guess you have to scarifice for the sake of your art.

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...P8090001-1.jpg

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/P8090002.jpg

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/P8090003.jpg

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

I prefer the original sound of 8tk tapes over <u>ANY</u> other music media today.. https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...mlins/flag.gif

http://www.pimpcostumes.com/images/p...DiscoStuLg.jpg

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x...71/8tracks.jpg


So, 8 tracks are not making a come back, And I should finely through these away? https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...lins/dunno.gif


https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...mlins/haha.gif https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...mlins/haha.gif https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...mlins/haha.gif


https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...lins/beers.gif

BTW...the T/A in loking AWESOME
Tom

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

Dang Rick, where did you find the picture of Bruce??

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

HA HA....that's his OTHER job after taking pics at Pavillions. He sure does have a strong pimp hand.... https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...lins/smile.gif just kidding Bruce~

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

You're in for a treat cuz Disco Stu's diggin that 8-track beat.

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...-Disco_Stu.png

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

[ QUOTE ]
Dang Rick, where did you find the picture of Bruce??

[/ QUOTE ]

Too funny Bud. https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...mlins/grin.gif https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...mlins/haha.gif https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...mlins/haha.gif https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...mlins/grin.gif


I thought I told you not to tell...now I'll have to let everyone know about you and the Zebra...in that hotel room in Collinsville...LOL https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...lins/blush.gif https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...mlins/wink.gif https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...mlins/grin.gif

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

Now here's what I'll be listening to...Brings back memories of lounging around the pool when I was about 7 or 8 years old.

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/P8090006.jpg

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

The latest chapter was trying to restore the original artificial leather-like-substitute, foam padded, Formula "Fat" steering wheel.

I decided to do it myself since the repro wheels are close to correct, but the makers chose to use a very hard urethane instead of a soft one (don't get me started on why companies get that close with a repro part and then don't go all the way when it would be so easy to substitute a softer durometer padding...) and the fact that the so called "restoration" services for these wheels involve them dipping it in a hard plastic outer coating like a Carvel chocolate dipped, ice cream cone (Here comes Willy the Wheel...in my best Frank Carvel/Abe Simpson voice) that cracks the first time your turn the wheel hard left or right.

I decided to try my hand at redoing the original wheel because you can't nice originals for less than $750 on ebay and an NOS 1970 to 73 Fat Wheel will run you about $2000, and I had nothing to lose as my wheel was so badly damaged it was only useable as a core. (Don't confuse the "Fat" wheel with the later model thinner ones that came on 75 to 81 Trans Ams -humungous price difference)

These wheels originaly had a smooth outer coating that eventually wore away after years of use and exposure to the sun, leaving the underlying rough, cracked, crumbly foam material exposed. Here is a close up of what they end up turning into:

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i30/nk15268a/a.jpg

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

One of the main problems with my wheel (and most older wheels) was that the foam had seperated from the internal steel core at the 10:00 position and could be rotated on the core like a motorcycle throttle. If left unaddressed, this defect would prove fatal to any attempt at a cosmetic restoration as the foam would turn and crack the outer surface.

What I ended up doing was performing surgury on the wheel. I used a razor and sliced through the foam on theback side, down to the metal core, and then filled the area with black weatherstrip adhesive. Once filled, I wrapped the repaired area tightly in masking tape and left it overnight to cure. The repair worked perfectly: no more turning foam.

(The in-progress photo didn't come out so here is a later photo with the incision marked in red)

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3.../P8250007a.jpg

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

The biggest problem with these wheels is the lack of a similar material for repair. Some people use bondo (too rigid) or silicone (too soft), but until now there was no real alternative.

Scratching me head, I was digging around in the lab and found two 10 year old tubes of 3M rubber bumper repair epoxy. This is the stuff used for filling and repairing the elastomeric/endura bumpers on Camaros, GTOs, Trans Ams, Cudas and the like. Mixed in equal parts, it cures fast, is extremely flexible, sands easy and can be painted. Since I had nothing to lose, I used it: I ended up stumbling onto the perfect repair material.

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/P8250002.jpg

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

I mixed small amounts as it cures quicky and you dont want to waste the stuff. I applied it to the entire wheel with a tongue depressor. During the process, my wife (Mrs. McGyver) accidentally wandered down into the work shop and saw the mess and just shook her head telling me that I ruined that poor wheel...Yee of little faith.

Once it cured I sanded it to a rough round shape, looked for low spots, and reapplied it about five or six times. Here are a couple of in-progress shots:

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/P8250001.jpg

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/P8250009.jpg

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

This is after about three days of reapplication, and resanding with 120 grit. I then sprayed it with several coats of flexible urethane primer and sanded some more with a mini-orbital sander and primed it some more. I also sanded the incorrect black paint off the spokes. This area should be anodized a gunmetal color, not painted (more on that later).

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/P8260010.jpg

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/P8260005.jpg

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

After I was satisfied with the smoothness and lack of flaws I used Duplicolor flat black vinyl paint and sprayed a bunch of coats on the wheel, hand wetsanding with 400 grit after each one to get the wheel perfectly round.


http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/P8270014.jpg

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/P8270018.jpg

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

The big trick was trying to duplicate the original gunmetal anodized finish on the spokes. Since there is no way to reanodize the metal on the wheel I harkened back to my military modeling days as a kid when I used to build WWII armor dioramas for a local hobby shop and would "weather" the tanks and gear to make them look realistically "battle weary."

I used one of the old tricks of the trade, which is to do a light paint wash of the area. I sprayed a two second burst of flat black into a cup and then added a little enamel reducer. (Be very careful: as this stuff dripped on the foam wheel will ruin the finish). I used a foam brush and lightly washed the blackened reducer over the metal areas. As it dried I would daub it with a crumpled paper towel to get rid of any brush marks. I did this about 20 times. You have to be patient as each application removes about half of the previous application as the enamel reducer dissolves the earlier paint. This process worked very well as it brought out the original brushed finish in the metal.

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/P8290003.jpg

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/P8290006.jpg

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

Here are the "McGyver-dized" spokes next to another original wheel for color comparison purposes. Perfect match:

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3.../aP8290003.jpg

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

Here is the finished product. The wheel looks just like the original piece and is just as flexible and soft as when it came from the factory 35 years ago.

So here it is, after about a week of work and approximately $40 in materials, sitting on top of my wife's prized antique, ceramic sugar bowl: https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...mlins/grin.gif

With a little leather preservative applied (after this photo was taken), it brought the sheen up to what the original was supposed to look like. I'd rather have it too flat than too glossy, as the wheel surface will shine up with age and use. (That's another old modeler's trick: if you want to duplicate black leather upholstery on a model car, paint it flat black and then once dried, buff the area with your fingers to bring up the shine https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...ns/scholar.gif)

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/P8290008.jpg

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/P8290015.jpg

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

Awesome stuff Steve...er, McGyver! https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...lins/beers.gif

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

Steve...........Great Job........ https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...iggthumpup.gif

Ken https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...mlins/flag.gif

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

That is awesome stuff Steve! A true inspiration for the do-it-yourself-er... https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...lins/beers.gif

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

Holy Cow Mac https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...emlins/eek.gif !!!! You've done it again. Thanks for the inspiration. https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...lins/beers.gif

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

All I can say is "WOW" https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...ns/worship.gif

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

Since the guys over at the Performance Years website thought the spokes were a little too light when compared to some low mileage reference photos, I modified the washing technique a little, once again resorting to my old military modeler days. I employed another wash technique using my wife's black acrylic stenciling paint and water and the same foam brush over the prior enamel washing. I applied about 15 coats over the course of the afternoon and then, once it dried, sprayed some clear Rustoleum spray paint over it from about 3 feet away so it was almost dry when it hit the wheel rims.

The comparson photo used for color reference purposes was from a late 71 Formula.

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/P8300001.jpg

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...10208_0_BG.jpg

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

Being the tinkerer that I am, I decided that the finish on the rubber rim was a little too flat so I used a can of the black Plasti-Dip Rubber Coating Spray and sprayed several coats on the rim. That stuff is amazing. It leaves a nice rubbery semi-shiny finish on the surface that duplicates the original foam rubber finish perfectly, and I had no problems with spraying the coats immediately after one another even though the can says wait 30 minutes between coats. I think they mean if you stop spraying, and let it sit for more than a minute, it may craze the previous layer. So, I ended up just spraying continuously to fully cover all surfaces of the rim. I then just left it to sit overnight. Here is the result from this morning.

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/P8310006.jpg

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/P8310001.jpg

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/P8310003.jpg

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

Quit your day Job.https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...iggthumpup.gif

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

That's so beautiful, I'd wear it as a hat. https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...mlins/grin.gif

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

[ QUOTE ]
That's so beautiful, I'd wear it as a hat. https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...mlins/grin.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

I was thinking more along the lines of a broach, or maybe get another wheel and try them on as two "pasties" for the more daring ladies out there! https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...ns/naughty.gif https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...ns/naughty.gif

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

Better not be T3's then!!! https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...ns/shocked.gif Or those bad boys will be training wheels down around the ankles! https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...mlins/grin.gif

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

Just for giggles I tried a little experiment on the Parts Place reproduction fat wheel I bought last year off of ebay. While it is dimensionally correct version of the early "fat wheel," the makers used a hard plastic-like, urethane with an incorrect heavy grain and fake mold seams on it.

I used the orbital sandle with 220 grit and sanded the edges more round where they meet the spokes and partially sanded down/smoothed the entire rim and especially the fake seam they had molded into the outer circumference of the wheel. I then sprayed it with several layers of the Plasti Dip spray. I think that is the trick for the repro wheel if you wanted to use one of these for your GTO or T/A. It really got rid of the plastic repro look and now looks like the original black foam.

I might install this wheel as my primary wheel and use the original one for shows (in the event I ever finish this confounded, eternal project) https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...s/rolleyes.gif

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3.../zP8310001.jpg

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

Steve, your skill and imagination on this restoration continues to impress and amaze me!

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

Southernfriedcj, how's your old NJ T/A doin? any photos? I could use the incentive/moral support. https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...mlins/grin.gif

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

Steve I was reading "Fabulous Firebirds" last night and it says in there that all 70 Firebirds came with a 12 bolt rear end no matter what model. Is that true?

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

Dont know about 1970. (71 and up had the 10 bolt) Here is the place for all Pontiac questions to be answered: www.performanceyears.com and then go to the 70 to 73 Firebird/Trans Am section. I know they will have the answer.

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

[ QUOTE ]
Steve I was reading "Fabulous Firebirds" last night and it says in there that all 70 Firebirds came with a 12 bolt rear end no matter what model. Is that true?

[/ QUOTE ]

I believe only the Trans Am and Formula's received the 12 bolt rears in '70. The 'regular' Firebird came with the 10 bolt.

Mike

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

More helpful hints from the toolbox: I was deciding whether to replace the carpet in the car due to it's overabundance of fuzz and pilz sticking up, when an idea lightbulb went off over my head. We have had this dog trimmer sitting in the cabinet for about 15 years now and no more long haired dogs to use it on.

I just spread the carpet out and gave it a crew cut! The trimmer worked amazingly well. No snags or pulls, it just buzzed all the extraneous fuzz that accumulated from years of using those floormats with the little rubber nubs and from normal foot wear. After that I used what remained of the vinyl spray dye and misted both the front and rear sections to blacken the sunfaded spots. So now I guess I'll keep this carpet set.

The next episode will be "1001 Uses for a Flowbee."


http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/P9060010.jpg

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/P9060002.jpg

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/P9060001.jpg

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

Ah yes, the crew cut is back. But wait a minute....didn't MacGyver have a mullet?! Not sure he would approve. Surprised "he" got so close to the shears with all of those posteriorly positioned locks of hair. https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...ins/tongue.gif

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v6...2/macgyver.jpg

Re: 72 T/A progess
 

I made sure I had all of my protective gear on at the time: gold chains and a lot of duct tape!