Here's a little video of yesterday's installation and some historic Air Lift photos. I forgot how long it takes to put these videos together as I haven't done it in a while. Enjoy!

So cool to see that the Eliminator II car had a GMC M-5000 truck that must have been morphed into a panel wagon by GM as it looks 100% factory. It can be seen next to Schartman's funny car at the 4:20 mark of the video.

That's must have been a screaming tow vehicle with its V12 702ci gas-powered engine. My uncle had an M-7000 back on the farm that we used to run around in in the '70s. A 10-speed grain truck and that thing would whine out to no end.

https://www.pinterest.ca/williampmun...-model-trucks/

Super cool! Thanks for taking the time to make the video and post as always.


Jason

The headliner is now installed complete with pinch weld moldings, sun visors, rearview mirror, and new dome light. Next up will be the window channels and then the side glass can go into the car.

https://i.ibb.co/PY87q35/Headliner-1.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/GdYqzcv/Headliner-2.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/MNtGXHM/Headliner-4.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/dpTwbKR/Headliner-5.jpg

Me and my brother put the headliner in my dad's '65 Nova a few weeks ago. I don't want to do that again.

lmao :haha:

I've always wanted to say I've done my own but have been a helper to (3) of them being installed and know when I should leave something to the pros (I resign to being the helper). I mean I can pull the fabric taught and all that, but it's the glue. Yeah the glue. I'd have that all over the cloth by the time I was finished because every time I work with the stuff, my hands are always covered with it when I'm done.

Nope...I always have an experienced guy come in to do the headliner. :laugh:

Lot's to do here still, but the door panels finally arrived from Al Knoch. Now I can finish installing the stainless trim and get these ready to mount up for a later date. Also cleaned and painted the lower kick panels and also repainted the original wiper transmission.

https://i.ibb.co/PwSrVfg/IMG-4653.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/gjs3GMT/IMG-4649.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/GsH9F8f/IMG-4650.jpg

I think your Lakewoods are Mopar A body applications.

I'm fairly certain they have the funky shock mount sticking up, unless you added that tab for some reason.
The Mopar A body looked similar to GM but had a narrower pad.

Nope...not Mopar. They are GM bars and pads with correct shock mount tabs for 69 Camaro. In fact, they were found on a Copo car where someone had added the extra tabs to reinforce the lower shock mounts. Those were cut off yesterday and today we're welding extension tabs onto the stock positions to raise the mount position on the lower shocks. Then I have to clean them up and repaint them before they go back on.

I love everything about this car. It is looking great.

The bars are now welded up and ground down where the alterations have been made. They will now accommodate longer shock travel, extended shackles, airbags, and the required height of the N50s to be tucked under a freshly painted pair of NOS quarters. All is right now, and this afternoon I'll sand these down, paint them yellow and mount them back under the car. The other plates pictured below are a set of 4" and 5" high strength shackles that will fit the back of the car. I might have a gusset welded between them to stabilize them further after I choose which set to use. :headbang:

https://i.ibb.co/0M0vTLK/IMG-4659.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/MMFZmRC/IMG-4660.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/8mPsQvY/IMG-4661.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/f868tPK/IMG-4655.jpg

There were Al Knoch deluxe door panels on my '68 Z when I got it and they were made too long so they hung up when you tried to open and close the doors. I hope you got a better set. I went and found some good originals in 714 black but nice '69s in yellow would be a near impossible find.

I didn't know you could restore deluxe original door boards until Joe told me that was an option with Al Knoch. I had already thrown out an old set by that point too. I tried to get original boards from them after the fact but they said they didn't have any cores to use. On a good note, I have bought from them before and had good luck with the panels fitting. If they don't, I have some good fitters around here who can always trim them where needed.

OK, the painting is done but now they need to dry overnight. My buddy didn't have time to bend the stirrups right now so a second set will be done later. Hardware is ready to go and so are the rear shackles. Once I have my coffee in the AM that is.

https://i.ibb.co/hMF8y9q/IMG-4666.jpg

They also could have been Lakewood 55-57 Chevy which used a narrower base and look near identical to the camaro. Just because they came off a Camaro does not mean they were the right application to begin with.
I have sold probably sold 50 sets of Lakewoods Camaro and the j bolts were never squeezed in at an angle. The j bolt hole being a 1/8 from the edge is also another quandry which makes me believe these were 55-57 Chevy. The Camaro/Nova spring pads were very wide on the Lakewood bars see attached pic.

They also could have been the Street bars that did not come with j bolts and someone weled on the little triangles underneath.

Bars look nice though.

Some clues that they are original Camaro bars. The inboard holes match my original stock multi-leaf lower shock mount plates to perfection. The outer holes are aligned just outside of the original multi-leaf hanger brackets, and they have shock mount tabs for staggered shock pattern. I'm also pretty sure Tri five-leaf spring pads are narrower than Camaro also. I've had several sets of these particular bars in the last few years on 3 different Camaro's and one original set on the 70 Nova and all were identical. And the lower angles do not appear to have been added???

If you mount the J bars into the outer holes outside of the hangers and then bring the front into the stirrups, you're bound to see an angle at the front of the J-bar bolts no matter what year they are from. It's impossible not to as it changes the angle when you use the outer holes and pull the fronts in by more than a 1/2".

In you want to assume they are tri-five bars that's ok with me. But I'd say nope. Notta. :wink:

I also added they could be the Camaro street action bars that did not use J bolts and someone could have added the little triangle. Those used the narrower spring pad.

Interesting to note that Graeme’s bars have what appear to be factory slotted inner U bolt holes, 2 front to back & 2 side to side and the 1,s posted by whitetop do not? I’ve never seen the slotted holes before. Maybe a later issue from Lakewood?

Also whitetops have the rear spring small strap on the rear portion of bar behind housing.

Doesn’t really matter as long as you can make them work for you, they look nice.

I did measure the distance from the inner holes for the u-bolts to the outer holes for the j-bolt and each of the j-bolt holes is 1.150" further outward. That's why there are such angles on the front legs of the j-bolts as they really turn in a lot to meet the eye holes on the front stirrups. I also tried mounting up an older set of original stirrups and they were tighter to fit and harder to align with the bolts than the NOS set I have here, so the NOS ones were used and they actually fit like a glove.

After welding extensions onto the Lakewood shock mount tabs, the new shock mounts move the eye upward by 2.5" and the shocks will now be well clear of the front legs of the j-bolt on the passenger side. When the car is positioned at the desired ride height for these tires, the rear shocks will be extended at 17" so there is plenty of room to extended or collapse within the shocks 13.14"-21.62" travel. As far as I am concerned, the bars are now finished and I am moving on to fit the rear brake lines as well as install the other Air Lift bag. It's gonna be sweet.

https://i.ibb.co/xsrfMgd/IMG-4670.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/7JM4jx1/IMG-4672.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/nnRSyzC/IMG-4688.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/9brmZnD/IMG-4690.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/6NhkFY1/IMG-4687.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/48NnfLx/IMG-4689.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/9ZNNRJ1/IMG-4705.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/NgR1p9w/IMG-4702.jpg

Thanks for posting these photos. I struggled to understand the J-bolt alignment thing and posted on the Day 2 page and got no responses. The inside holes on the TB line up much better with the stirrup, but then there's no place to mount the other u-bolt. I appreciate the detailed insight!

Looks Fantastic.

The bars came out pretty awesome. I've never seen them with the extra set of holes to add the J-bars in addition to both the u-bolts. Nice to be able to run both for strength. Is that just a different part number/style from Lakewood?
These are Grady's and what I normally have seen.

I’m pretty sure the 2nd generation of Lakewood bars which were rectangular tubing had the extra holes for the J bolts, it makes way more sense if you think about it, because if you ever broke a j bolt it could lead to disaster.
Grady’s bars are the original square tube design.

FWIW, I bought my first set of Lakewood bars about 72/73 and they were rectangle style, with the J bolt option.

The U bolts as well as the J bolts give you way superior clamping on the housing spring perches.

Glad it worked out for Graeme.

Hello Dave,

Grady's are the earlier square tube bars (Traction Action - Competition Bars) that came out in the 1968/1969 period and are quite hard to come by...not to mention costly. Although wider in tube design, they were also shorter in overall length. They could also be found with the wider (tapered) base plate and the outer J-bolt holes but were often altered with a narrowed base for both tire clearance and the shedding of excess weight by serious drag racers. The pair I had (shown below) were shaved on one side. This design was also available with or without the rear tails in the late 60s.

https://i.ibb.co/ryyNFsZ/IMG-3597.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/w4yT0x1/IMG-3596.jpg

The style I have on this car is the second generation (Traction Action - Competition Bars) that started appearing in 1970 and beyond. They have rectangular tubes and are a bit longer than their predecessors measuring 33" overall from back to front. They also include the tapered 6" x 6" base plate with additional holes for the outer J-bolts. Most that I have seen from this period had the 6" tails and these were available with or without the rear straps to control the rebound. I think I have had 3 identical sets of these now and love this design although they are quite heavy.

https://i.ibb.co/pdxxPk4/IMG-3588.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/W5Sp4xp/IMG-3589.jpg

I have restored both versions of the Lakewood Traction Action bars but prefer the longer rectangular design myself. In saying what I have come to learn about these bars, there are many people here who know a lot more about this stuff than I do since I was born in the mid-60s and was still wiping my nose when many people were racing while using these bars. That being said, I have studied this stuff well and I'm still learning about period-correct hardware whenever or wherever I can. As I understand it, there were many variations of the bars available over the years, and recall from using these in the early 80s that the later bars excluded the rear tail sections.

Also mentioned earlier in this thread, there was also the street master series which if I recall had a narrowed base plate and no provisions for the J-bar hardware. Most of the trac bar designs are very similar and many can be altered to fit different cars with the same direct purpose. Traction Action!

https://i.ibb.co/61bM8C5/IMG-3576.jpg

Oh...and if I am off on any of this stuff, perhaps someone else can chime in and share some more knowledge as Mike has done above. I am no professor on this stuff. I simply enjoy it and the period looks that came from using it.

Mike, I looked at some old pictures of the black bars I got from you a few years ago and they were identical to the ones I am using on this car and restored above.

Very cool! I agree that it's a much better design for strength reasons. Makes a lot of sense. My 69 is unfinished day 2 that I drive alot. It's in primer still. I didn't come across any real Lakewood, so I cheated. I painted a set of CE2101 bars. They work and give the look at least...
Thanks for the explanation. I'm loving your build.

Those look good and I'm sure they work just fine. One word of caution if I may. You may want to consider trimming the tips on the J-Bolts. Depending on the length hanging down, those forward-facing legs can easily hang up on anything that goes under the car including speed bumps or road debris. I'd trim the legs back a bit for sure. Not too short though.

Have a Merry Christmas Dave!

Absolutely. That was when I had just put them on before I adjusted them. I do still need to trim the bolts, but they don't hang near as low.
I had ridiculous wheel hop before I installed them. It completely eliminated it.

Merry Christmas!

During a few days off, I managed to pick up a new Nut-Sert tool and installed some 5/16" riv-nuts into the frame rails to better mount the Air Lift bags. Both sides are now installed and I can now move onto some other projects while awaiting the rear shocks to come in. Time to install some longer front wheel studs and finish up the front calipers.

https://i.ibb.co/zhsc82s/IMG-4757.jpg
This will be the ideal ride height for the back and should give me the look I am wanting.

https://i.ibb.co/GF4sC7L/IMG-4746.jpg
The new tool received for Christmas.

https://i.ibb.co/hgHykrJ/IMG-4750.jpg
Riv-nuts installed for additional strength. These are 5/16"

https://i.ibb.co/7X6Qt0F/IMG-4754.jpg
Top brackets are now secured to the frame rails on each side.

https://i.ibb.co/LJxDVjq/IMG-4753.jpg
The passenger side is finished up.

https://i.ibb.co/s1CzQhg/IMG-4756.jpg
And so is the driver's side. These look pretty cool under there.

https://i.ibb.co/VtQBqWz/IMG-4755.jpg
And here is the offset mounting kit which moves the air valve to the inside of the springs.

Graeme, there were long square bars, too. The set that were on the rear that was included in the package I sold to Mike were the longer style and had NOS hardware and shims. Not sure what he did with everything, but it was a killer set-up. I've been wondering about those air bags....you mentioned you might need/use air shocks to fine tune the ride height? My guess is that the air shocks would "trump" the bags if the body separation is due to higher pressure in the shocks than the bags. I remember you fabbing some different length shackles, and while I've never been a fan of longer than stock shackles, I think they would be more compatible with the bags if you intend to use the bags for traction devices. The only other option I can think of, where the bags could/would be used for preload would be re-arching or changing the rear leaf springs. If the bags are only along for the "cool factor", or if you plan to use THEM to adjust ride height, then my comments and thoughts are out the window! IIRC, the original intended use of the bags was for stability in situations as trailering or carrying heavy loads, but not for high level inflation for everyday use. I used them in an A-Body drag car back in the day and they worked like a champ, but we never inflated them for ride height, only to tune the launch. I seem to remember to left side was 7lbs., and the right was 14.
BTW, the car looks fantastic!!!

I plan to make use of those air bags in future.

Safe and awaiting for time. :-)

Ryan W31

Hello Dave...

I've seen some longer versions of the square bars but I think they are still an inch or two shorter than these bars at 33" in overall length? IIRC the square bars always seemed to be an inch further back of the front spring perches? Be curious to know what those measured in at forward and overall length? I do think Mike ended up selling those ones he had.

As for the airbags, I bought them more as a day II accessory and a period-correct bolt-on. Since I'm building it as a streetcar, they would seldom be used as a traction device although I presently have them set at 7 pounds and 12 pounds. I figured if I left them in there they'd have low pressure just to keep them expanded correctly. I was hoping I could use them to support some rear height and run a set of drag shocks but unless I pump them up higher they just don't lift the car enough to support these tires.

Whether or not I add the shackle extensions to the rear is yet to be seen. In either case, I may need air shocks just to get the right height to run the 50's but still have to play with that combination. The airbags may end up being removed with added ride height since it also creates too much strain on the coils and the upper mounts due to extension. Either that or I may fab some taller mounting brackets for the top mounts (easy to do).

If they do end up coming off, I will keep them for a time where I decide to drop the rear and run a smaller set of tires c/w drag shocks. They would work much better in that scenario and that's a very real possibility if I ever decide to take this down to the supercar reunion to play around at the track. Whatever route I end up choosing...it will all work itself out. :burnout:

15x 8.5's? Looks great with N50's.

Yes sir! :headbang:

You're spot on at 8.5" and I love N50's on these cars given the right stance.

N50's look perfect with 8.50 rim. The new Goodyear bias ply L60-15 are narrower than original and the sidewall bulges out with 8.50 rim.

Finally moved onto the glass and got started with things yesterday. After sorting out all the hardware and soaking some parts in evapo-rust, today I got the quarter glass finished up and got all of the door hardware and right side glass installed. Still need to make a few adjustments to the door glass tonight and then I can move onto the driver's side.


https://i.ibb.co/RY1F3HT/IMG-4780.jpg
First I cleaned the old window channels and set them in place with a new sealant strip and latex weatherstrips.

https://i.ibb.co/1fR63rH/IMG-4811.jpg
Next, I stripped the old hardware from the glass and cleaned it all up to reinstall with the new side glass.

https://i.ibb.co/G3WSMpK/IMG-4816.jpg
All of the run channels and regulators were cleaned and detailed months ago. This set is ready to install.

https://i.ibb.co/X3jrGT1/IMG-4819.jpg
Quarter glass is now installed and adjusted nicely.

https://i.ibb.co/7pVnDHZ/IMG-4820.jpg
With the remaining hardware installed I was ready to set the right side door glass.

https://i.ibb.co/yN8nxPL/IMG-4823.jpg
Door glass installed as well as the locking hardware and handles. Still need to make some adjustments on this side.

Looks great. I hate messing with window regulators.

Good progress. What brand is the new glass (looks like Pilkington)? Any issues with fit?

It's the glass that Auto City Classics sells although I believe it's an offshore product. They have it in clear, green tint or grey tint and I've used it a couple of times now. Fit's nice and they can date code any way you require it. This order was all dated XV with LOF markings.

Sorry to hijack, but I'd assume the new ones are more comparable to a 255 than a 275?

We really need more L60 choices. All we've got are the Pro-Tracs, which are labelled with a metric size, the Goodyears, and I think M&H has one.

Honestly, I wish they'd re-release the Racing Profile in L60. N50s are sweet, I love them, but I think an L60 would look better on my specific Camaro personally, as it wouldn't be a drastic change in size from the 255/60/15, but a nice little increase.