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Re: 72 T/A progess
In the never ending search for more metal things to soak in that www.safestrustremover.com liquid, I found the inner sill plates and the front headliner mount. Since they are all about 5 feet long and I only have a limited supply of the precious liquid, I had to create a five foot by 3 inch deep by 5 inch wide trough. I went to the local Home Depot and bought a section of plastic roof gutter for $3 and some 4 mil plastic sheet and created an plastic lined trough the exact size. I then filled it with the liquid and placed the parts in it for an overnight soaking.
Of course, I had to acquire the specialized tools to hold the contraption in place: Only an officially licensed, battery operated, mini-Bigfoot monster truck will do. http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/P5090002.jpg http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/P5090006.jpg and the finshed product: http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/P5100009.jpg |
Re: 72 T/A progess
Amazing...whoever caller you Mc Gyver was right on...in a good way, that is https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...mlins/grin.gif https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...lins/beers.gif
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Re: 72 T/A progess
Steve.........Everything that get's touched is time, time, ...................time.......Fun isn't it.........LOL
Ken |
Re: 72 T/A progess
More amazing results from the amazing rust remover stuff. The guy that invented this should get the Nobel Prize in Automotive Chemical Engineering. After dipping overnight, you can even see the "W" stamps plain as day. After rinsing them off and letting them dry in the sun, I sprayed them with Boeshield to preserve the original metal finish. I love this stuff!
https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...lins/beers.gif These were the completely rusted tail pipe and main muffler hangers for the T/A (totally unavailable for years. And the repros made by Gardner, while very close, have manufacturing differences that are visible to the trained eye) http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/P5150003.jpg http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/P5150004.jpg http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/P5150006.jpg http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/P5150005.jpg I even threw in the interior door panel mounting plates which were surface rusted. http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/P5150007.jpg |
Re: 72 T/A progess
Steve is so into this that he even used the AUTO section of the paper to lay his parts on! https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...lins/beers.gif
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Re: 72 T/A progess
I just noticed that! Must be a subliminally subconscious thing. https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...lins/blush.gif
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Re: 72 T/A progess
[ QUOTE ]
The guy that invented this should get the Nobel Prize in Automotive Chemical Engineering. [/ QUOTE ] I talked to the guy who "invented" this stuff. It is embarrassingly simple. 98% water. Just a chemical added to get the PH to a 7 if I recall correctly. If it is as he explained it, I would rather pay for the chemical and mix it as needed instead of buying it in liquid form. One thing he stressed, ALWAYS clean the bucket you are using of any debris or rust as the chemical continues to work on it even when the part has been removed and in turn it breaks the chemical down more rapidly. Also, use ONLY enough liquid to derust the part you are doing so as to not contaminate the rest of the liquid. When the chemical breaks down and does not react with the rust anymore it is safe and legal to drain down the sewer as it is now simply dirty water. Neat stuff regardless. Rick |
Re: 72 T/A progess
FYI, It is Jack Seymour,(a member here and fellow Carlisle LEGENDS Judge) who is the person reproducing the 70+ Camaro muffler and tailpipe hangars. Jack works for G.M. and was able to secure original drawings and then had new tooling made up to mfg the very rare muffler hangars. Honestly I dont know the "differences" between Jack's new hangars and originals, but the ACA judges at Carlisle accept them as we would N.O.S. vintage pieces.
Gardner Exhaust and other misc vendors and shops, ALL buy these hangars from Jack Seymour. Jack Seymour was one of the 1st 70 Camaro owners to restore his exhaust system with a N.O.S. muffler and NOT use the aftermarket IMCO muffler, that GARDNER provides with there complete 1970 Camaro system. Respectfully submitted, |
Re: 72 T/A progess
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ] The guy that invented this should get the Nobel Prize in Automotive Chemical Engineering. [/ QUOTE ] I talked to the guy who "invented" this stuff. It is embarrassingly simple. 98% water. Just a chemical added to get the PH to a 7 if I recall correctly. If it is as he explained it, I would rather pay for the chemical and mix it as needed instead of buying it in liquid form. One thing he stressed, ALWAYS clean the bucket you are using of any debris or rust as the chemical continues to work on it even when the part has been removed and in turn it breaks the chemical down more rapidly. Also, use ONLY enough liquid to derust the part you are doing so as to not contaminate the rest of the liquid. When the chemical breaks down and does not react with the rust anymore it is safe and legal to drain down the sewer as it is now simply dirty water. Neat stuff regardless. Rick [/ QUOTE ] Well, in that vein, I guess a diamond is just 100% carbon with a little pressure added over time. https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...mlins/grin.gif I have been pouring all but the last bit of the liquid with the bottom debris, back into the container. Eventually I will buy some more but it is still working well after all these months. |
Re: 72 T/A progess
Here is a photo comparison of my original hangers and the Gardner ones. I don't mean any disparagement concerning the quality of the repros. They look awesome but maybe there was a running assembly line change by 1972???
The muffler hanger definitely uses a different rubber bushing and method of containment for it. Smaller bushing with bent retaining tabs on the repro vs. extended shoulders on the original bushing. As for the rear pipe hanger, the triangular support bracing is shorter on the repro but interestingly enough it uses the same type of bushing as the reproduction muffler hanger (with tabs.) http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...8/P5150005.jpg http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...8/P5150008.jpg http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...8/P5150001.jpg http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...8/P5150011.jpg http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...8/P5150009.jpg http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...8/P5150010.jpg http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...8/P5150012.jpg |
Re: 72 T/A progess
Some more body shop progress from ENOCH. I guess he is also working on a 69 Z/28 at the same time. Don't know which one though. https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...ns/naughty.gif Anyone care to fess up as to who is delaying my car's finishing date?
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/CAGDW9OV.jpg http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/CAOXOP4Z.jpg http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/CAXO2LDZ.jpg http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/CAXOQDDN.jpg http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/CA414H87.jpg |
Re: 72 T/A progess
Isn't the 69 Z SamLBinJ's?
https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...mlins/hmmm.gif https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...lins/dunno.gif |
Re: 72 T/A progess
Look'in "Good" Steve......... https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...iggthumpup.gif
Ken https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...mlins/flag.gif |
Re: 72 T/A progess
Look what I just found on ebay! A buddy from the Performance Years website gave me a heads up. A good buy at $15. Looks like vintage 1970's from my car's original dealership (which is still in business today!)
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...eliabletag.jpg |
Re: 72 T/A progess
Steve,
I just got a gallon of the Safe Rust Remover after seeing your results. Boy, this stuff is amazing! I put the "hamster wheel" out of the heater box of my 65 Chevy II and soaked it overnight. Looks like new! I do have one question: Have you had any paint adhesion problems with parts washed in it and then washed under water after the process is over? |
Re: 72 T/A progess
No problems at all. Just wash in soapy water til squeeky clean and then let them dry out in the sun and you're ready. If it is going to stay bare metal then use some kind of preservative, like Boeshield.
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Re: 72 T/A progess
[ QUOTE ]
Look what I just found on ebay! A buddy from the Performance Years website gave me a heads up. A good buy at $15. Looks like vintage 1970's from my car's original Roseville, California dealership (which is still in business today!) http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...eliabletag.jpg [/ QUOTE ] Here is the major restoration on the license plate frame: I cleaned it in the kitchen sink when the wife wasn't looking. I used 0000 steel wool which brought the chrome back very nicely. http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/P6090006.jpg I then sprayed a bunch of gloss black enamel into a cup and used a Q-tip to soak up the paint. I then applied the paint liberally to the background area, letting it run and moving the frame around so the paint would flow into the letters. (It's a lot easier to use the "sprayed out" spray paint than trying to thin out regular paint from a can). http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/P6090009.jpg For the letters, I then used white touch-up paint from the wife's old mini-van. Those little self-contained bottles with the built-in brushes sure come in handy after you sell the car. http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/P6090012.jpg After all the paint was applied I put it in the oven at 250 degrees for 10 minutes to cure it. (Wife still out shopping, of course) And voila! All ready for the car...and this vintage California license plate I picked up, which still has the 1972/73 registration sticker on it! http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...68a/QL5546.jpg |
Re: 72 T/A progess
Nice work Steve. YOM plates and dealer frames are one of my favorite details.
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Re: 72 T/A progess
I have been cleaning up the remaining set of fuel/vent lines and have noticed that there has to be at least 10 different sizes of retaining clamps used on the car, in all different finshes and paint colors for the various brake/fuel/emission vent lines, which all come with or without the coil spring sheathing. I have found bright yellow, zinc chromate green, black painted, black phosphated, natural metal, silver cad (or zinc) coated of the various sizes both with and without alignment hole locating tabs.
Most of the retainers have a size number stamped on them in inch measurement like 24/64". Here are a few photos of the before and after clean-up shots. I wirebrushed the lines and the coil springs and just gently hand cleaned the retainers with a tooth brush and extremely diluted "purple stuff" degreaser, as I am trying to retain all the original finishes and not repaint/recoat them. http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/P5050008.jpg http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/P5050012.jpg http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/P5050006.jpg After the cleanup, here is the last set of lines, the rear fuel/vent to subframe lines: http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/P1010016.jpg http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/P1010015.jpg |
Re: 72 T/A progess
And yes, that is the original trunk mat sitting on top of the Viper (pronounced work bench). I had to lay it flat because I didn't want to risk it cracking from being stored in a folded up position.
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/P1010008.jpg http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3.../P1010002c.jpg It even has the factory stencilled part number still visible on the back. It's a shame they dont reproduce these in the correct material: this mat is about 1/8" thick, heavy rubber. http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/P1010017.jpg |
Re: 72 T/A progess
This is the current state of the rest of the car. She starts, runs, idles, etc, just waiting for the body man to finish the front clip and away she goes.
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/P1010006.jpg http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/P1010007.jpg http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/P1010011.jpg http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...P1010001aa.jpg With careful cleaning, I was even able to save the original stamp dates on the a/c POA valve. September 29 1971, for a 12A (first week December 1971) build date car. http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/P1010019.jpg |
Re: 72 T/A progess
Steve I have enjoyed this thread so much I have mixed emotions as the car nears completion. And I doubt it looked that good new.
I think you need another one. |
Re: 72 T/A progess
I have the same feeling: I guess for everyone following this saga, it's like being an expectant father waiting for the birth of his first child. Boy, these damn labor pains are killin' me! https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...mlins/grin.gif
I looked at the number of hits on this post and it's at 42,000 today. Is that a new record or something? |
Re: 72 T/A progess
If not it's damn close! I, too Steve...have enjoyed every minute of your McGyver like approach to the restoration. Amazing what human ingenuity can do! https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...lins/beers.gif https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...iggthumpup.gif
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Re: 72 T/A progess
I am new at this technology stuff, so here goes. This is 15 seconds of video from a phone, of the 455HO running (it's all stock, I promise https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...ns/naughty.gif)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ywG29qPDe-U https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M3rv-KjgZO8 |
Re: 72 T/A progess
[ QUOTE ]
I am new at this technology stuff, so here goes. This is 15 seconds of video from a phone, of the 455HO running (it's all stock, I promise https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...ns/naughty.gif) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ywG29qPDe-U https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M3rv-KjgZO8 [/ QUOTE ] The car sounds great, these HO's have a definate 'bark' to them when you goose the throttle. Steve, which cam did you use? Mike |
Re: 72 T/A progess
Surprisingly, that is the stock 068 camshaft.
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Re: 72 T/A progess
Progress on the driver's side fender. While it was completely rust-free, it had a bizarre series of dents and stretches in the metal that were pretty darn near impossible to massage out without a great deal of body filler. ENOCH ended up cutting out the stretched, damaged metal and welding in a patch panel for that square section. Here is some of the initial work:
Before: http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/P1140003.jpg Cutting the patch panel: http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/DSCN2134.jpg Cutting out the mangled fender section: http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/DSCN2154.jpg The incredible visible fender. Note the condition of the internal bracing behind the cut. You'll never find that on an East Coast car! https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...ns/naughty.gif http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/DSCN2151.jpg Test fitting the patch panel: http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/DSCN2153.jpg Hey, maybe we can replace the patch panel area with one of those Motion Performance reverse Corvette fender gill setups. https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...mlins/grin.gif |
Re: 72 T/A progess
Just got the rear bumper back from TriCity Plating. They did a really nice job on the rechroming. The finish on the outer surface is flawless: no scratches, dings, waves, peels, etc. I used them before for my Charger and was very pleased - I bought a Charger rear bumper from them at Carlisle back in 2004 that they had in stock. This time they didn't have any 70-73 Firebird bumpers so I brought them my core at Spring Carlisle and they did it in 8 weeks as promised. Price was reasonable at $300 including return shipping.
Here is the before shot. The inside of the bumper had been the victim of a very poor replating which had delaminated/peeled and the rusted. I removed all the brackets and stripped and repainted them while TriCity had the bumper. http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...8/rbumper1.jpg http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...8/rbumper8.jpg Here's the finished piece. The black smudges on the back are actually black RTV silcone sealer. I make it a habit of smearing a line of it around the perimeter of the back of the bumper. It really helps to prevent any future problems with the plating lifting on formerly rusted surfaces, especially the sharp edges, if you keep all moisture away from the area. Since the backside was heavily pitted from the previous bad prep and rust, this should hold it for the next 20 years or so. http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...8/P6280001.jpg http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...8/P6280002.jpg Here's the outer surface. I dug through my old collection of bumper bolts and found 10 original flat capped bolts. I polished them up nicely and installed them on the bumper The bolts they sell today just aren't the same in terms of the way the caps "dome out". They should be nearly flat to be correct. (sorry about the glare and smudges -its nearly impossible to get a good photo of chrome) http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...8/P6280003.jpg http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...8/P6280005.jpg |
Re: 72 T/A progess
I've been playing with the original console in the car. The four speed consoles are extremely rare. To add to that they were all made of this extremely fragile vinyl covered plastic that cracked in a million pieces the first time your girlfriend tried to sidle up to you in a romantic ferver. The one in this car seems to have been from a den of inequity judging by the dozens of fractures in it. https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...ns/naughty.gif
While it looks like hell from underneath, from the top it looks pretty good once I dyed it with the correct flat black vinyl dye. The secret to glueing these things is to use a 2-part plastic welding epoxy and a bracing material: either flat plastic stock or wooden paint stirrers. Actually, the paint stirrers worked great for the areas needing more structural intergrity. I just coated the area with the 2-part plastic epoxy and then clamped the wood in place and covered the repair in more of the epoxy. It's sturdy enough now to hold handle a Brittney and K-Fed, Smokey and The Bandit drive-in reunion date. https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...ns/naughty.gif http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...8/P7060005.jpg The repairs: http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...8/P7060006.jpg http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...8/P7060007.jpg |
Re: 72 T/A progess
After getting the console finished, I cleaned up the factory 8-track player. I disassembled the front of the deck and soaked the brackets and the 8-track door in the www.safestrustremover.com stuff. As usual, it came out amazing considering what they looked like to begin with. I also repainted the upper mounting face plate and reinstalled the entire unit in the console. The 2 pound console now weighs about 12 pounds with that giant stereo unit bolted in.
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...8/P7060008.jpg http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...8/P7060009.jpg http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...8/P7060010.jpg http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...8/P7060011.jpg |
Re: 72 T/A progess
And looky what I just found to put into that tape player:
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...268a/tape3.jpg http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...268a/tape1.jpg http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...268a/tape2.jpg |
Re: 72 T/A progess
I took on the seatbelt project over the weekend. This car has the deluxe seatbelts with the satin chrome covers on it. Since it is an early (12A built) 1972, it has the 1971 style shoulder belts that have the bizarre little plastic retainer that screws into the headliner. They employed a 7" section of black elastic that, over the years stretches out to 20" and no longer holds the shoulder belts above your head. Only recently have the unique plastic retainers been reproduced. (Though some guy on ebay has been selling them as "NOS" for $90 for 2 years now https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...s/rolleyes.gif)
I spent a day cleaning the belts after removing the covers and push buttons. I soaked the whole set in a solution of 10% Purple Stuff and 90% hot water. I let them soak for about a half hour and then gently scrubbed with a plastic bristle brush and rinsed them in hot water. I then hung them out to dry in the 95 degree sun. They came out squeeky clean and even the labels looked a whole lot better (I was extra careful using the brush on those). Here's the unique seatbelt drying rack I have patented: http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/P7070001.jpg And here is the full set after drying. As you can see the shoulder harnesses have a whole bunch of stretched out elastic that needs to be replaced: http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...beltset1-1.jpg Here's the labels: http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3.../P7060009a.jpg http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/P7080012.jpg |
Re: 72 T/A progess
Here is the strange shoulder harness mounting system used on the 71's and early 72's:
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/P7090002.jpg The male buckle end clips onto an extremely fragile, clear plastic, do-hicky. This one actually survived 35 years in one piece. Normally you only find the screw left and no plastic do-hicky. This piece is now reproduced for about $32 a pair. http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/P7090006.jpg http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/P7090007.jpg Here is the extremely stretched out elastic that once was 7" in length and is now 20" with a shortening knot halfway through it: http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/P7090004.jpg |
Re: 72 T/A progess
All of the release buttons were missing their paint from years of pressing. There were relatively easy to redo. I just sprayed the entire button with flat black paint, let it dry and then flipped them over and gently sanded them on 600 grit sand paper. It took the paint right off the high spots on the logo and looked brand new.
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/P7070011.jpg http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/P7080017.jpg |
Re: 72 T/A progess
I then tackled the elastic issue. I went to my local Michaels Craft Store and bought a 48" package of 1/2" elastic from the sewing aisle. It only comes in white, so I had to also buy a small bottle of black fabric paint. Cost: about $7 total. I then soaked the whole strip of elastic in the fabric paint and let it dry on the rack outside in the sun.
Here is the shoulder belt in it's original state. As you can see the 7" long section of 1/2" elastic stretched out to 20" of 1/4" elastic over 35 years: http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/P7060015.jpg I gently trimmed the factory stitching from the elastic and removed it after marking the area with some chalk. (There is a left and right belt and the elastics go on opposite sides). I then cut a section slightly longer than the original distance between the two mounting points, folded the ends and hand sewed them onto the belts. Here is the finished product: http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3.../P70900072.jpg http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...a/P7090009.jpg The whole set is now all finished and ready to go. Though I could use a couple nicer satin finish covers in case anyone has an extra few just lieing around the garage somewhere taking up space. |
Re: 72 T/A progess
These are the same kind of belts that I had in my 72 SS when I bought it. I took them out and put in belts from a 73 because they were easier to use. The originals have followed me everywhere I have lived the last 20 years. Now I am kinda glad I kept them. After seeing what you did with yours I may just have to to put them back in one of these days!
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Re: 72 T/A progess
After looking at your console I have a question. The 72 Camaros had a place in the console to put the 2 buckles for each seat, did the Firebird have anything like that?
RAY |
Re: 72 T/A progess
As usual, very nice work Steve. I think I may be sending you a box of seat belts to do....... https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...mlins/grin.gif
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Re: 72 T/A progess
https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bs.gif I'm gonna have to cry foul here. Have you guys noticed that when you check "who's on line" that every other anonymous viewer is checking out "RE: 72 T/A progress". I think this MacGyver fellow is paying friends and associates to check out his thread in order to secure the highest visit count ever for an sYc thread https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/no.gif .
Come clean MacGyver! You'll sleep better. Oh and by the way, thanks for the awesome tutorial on restoring a muscle car with just a swiss army knife, a ball of string, and some chewing gum (and that de-rusting stuff) https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...mlins/wink.gif https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...lins/smile.gif https://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/imag...mlins/grin.gif !!!!!! |
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