For what it's worth, that is how it's done on the Firebirds. I haven't done an A body, though.

First, the fan has to be out of the car. With the radiator and shroud on the ground, you set the radiator on the two rubber cushions at the bottom of the shroud, which engage the edges of both radiator tanks. There will also be two more rubber cushions that go in the same spot on the tank edges at the top of the radiator. Then carefully lower the shroud and radiator into place aligning up to the radiator support. There should be two or more bolts that hold the bottom of the shroud against the back side of the radiator support. There will also be a row of bolts across the top that go through the shroud into the top of the radiator support at the edge. The top bolts require the captured nut clips.

AHH that makes sense now. When I pulled the car apart the original fan shroud was broken and I tossed it. I have another shroud from another car and haven't put the 2 together yet. It all makes sense now. Thanks for the replys

1970 gto
 

Just stopped by to say the Goat looks great dude, nice work!!!!!!

How about some pics after a weekend of assembly?

I will post some pictures in a couple of days. I've been beating myself up the last couple days trying to work around these headers. Who would think one little change in the engine bay by adding aftermarket heads would create so many problems. From brake lines, alternator and power steering brackets to the clutch return spring. I have the brake lines all made and test fit. I ordered the power brake booster and that showed up damaged. We just can't win. I had to get creative with the clutch return spring. I made two brackets and both failed. Just no room for the clutch return spring or a bracket. I kept walking away from the problem and then the third attempt was the best and simplest design. I think it will work. I'm currently installing the sound deadener and rug in-between working on the engine bay. You would think final assembly would be bolt on and go, but that isn't always the case. These pictures are during mock up I will be painting the bracket and starter. Oh YA and I still need to come up with a way to get the wires to the starter, as the header tube is in the way where the original wire channel was run. That's going to be another fun challenge. I guess that's why its called hot rodding.

Did this car have the 400 starter wires running down the tube between the #5 and 7 cylinders? That won’t work with headers. You can use the 455HO/SD455 wire routing which runs across the intake, down the front of the block, behind the power steering pump and along the oil pan rail. It uses a different metal tube to protect the wires on the front of the block. You will need a starter heat shield by the way.

Is there so many problems just to add headers or the problems are increased by also using Aluminum heads?

Pure Stock is the way to Rock :-)

Ryan

Steve that is correct. I will look into that tube for the 455, do they reproduce it? Is the heat shield factory? Not that it matters but if I can install one it might save the starter.

These are Edelbrock aluminum heads and must be wider than the originals putting the headers close to the frame rail. Only Dougs make these headers for these heads they have a D shaped exhaust port. I have a friend with a 69 Chevelle with a 454 and headers and he has all sorts of space around the frame rails.

Not a lot of people go with headers on Pontiac engines for this very reason. Bad fit and big leaks, and not much more performance than the ram air manifolds give. They usually upgrade to the factory ram air manifolds which are reproduced now. They even make them with larger port flange sizes. That’s what I have in the Gramma car.

The front mounted 455HO metal tube is really just to prevent chafing on the front of the block so it’s really not that necessary on a modified car. The harness can be protected in other ways. The solenoid heat shield is reproduced in the aftermarket. I can post some photos later when I get home.